Back in Bariloche and a group of overlanders.

After Marcela, Mariano and Pelusa dropped us back at Bariloche, Winston and I settled into the same routine as before. We would take walks on the beach, to the park and store and socialize with people both camping around us and who live at Petunia. Just for a change of pace, I would go into the town of Bariloche to check out the stores and have lunch somewhere. The campground is much quieter now as we are approaching mid February. It is also my birthday and it felt strange spending it alone. I cooked a good Argentinean steak with salad and mushrooms and even picked up a small chocolate dessert. I also got our taxes completed and submitted online. For the record, I filed right before Presidents Day weekend in the States and, via direct deposit we received our California state tax refund in 5 working days and the federal in 13. I would term that as quite efficient. And so the days were passing until…there I was one day down by the office on the internet when a pickup camper with California license plates drove past me, and then another with Washington plates, and then a third with Florida plates. Huh!! As I walked back to the RV, I passed the one from Washington. A young woman beside it asked me if I had the American RV. When I said yes, she introduced herself. Lauren and her husband James have driven the west coast down from the States. She then told me that within the next two days, possibly 10 vehicles with maybe about 25 people would be arriving. Mostly Americans but with a spattering of Germans and South Africans, driving the same route as us. Sure enough, within two days the original 6 had grown to over 20 people, mostly young Americans travelling in camper-style pickups. There was a couple from South Africa with two children Jessica and Keelan, who loved hanging out in the motorhome with myself and Winston, a few Germans and one couple who was backpacking and staying in hostels and cabanas. I admit I infiltrated amongst them. Hungry for English conversation, hungry for American companionship and hungry for information about the route back up the west coast of South America. Having come down the east coast, Tom and I are in the minority. Most overlanders arrive at Cartagena, Colombia and hang a right down the Pacific not turn left along the Caribbean coast and then south through Venezuela and Brazil. There was a huge assado (barbeque) planned for that Sunday. Permission was asked for and received from Juan and a pit was dug. A whole lamb, a whole pig and a full rack of beef ribs were on the menu. One of the ladies Jessica had a sign-up sheet for appetizers, sides and desserts. I offered to bring an appetizer plate of Patagonian delights. Smoked ciervo (venison), smoked trout and smoked jabali (a type of wild boar), in addition to cheeses and pates. However the evening before after much wine was consumed, someone mentioned roasted garlic potatoes. Having imbibed and shared much of that wine, I readily offered to make them. Thankfully, I did get help peeling all the potatoes. I also offered our oven for Lauren and Jill to make cookies for dessert. I can only add that the assado was amazing, the side dishes were excellent and there was enough food left for the following day. What a treat and I don’t mean just the food!! The amount of wine consumed was also copious and come Monday morning I don’t think I was the only person lagging a little. Monday and Tuesday passed by with more sharing of experiences, emails, food and wine. By Wednesday everyone had left and I felt a little sad but having exchanged contact information with most of them, there is a possibility that I will meet some of them again on the trail. It is now only a few more days before Tom gets back from the States. The overland gang was sorry to have missed him and hopes to meet up with us sometime in the months ahead.

Quina Quila.

It is our last day in San Martin de Los Andes and although still cloudy the rain has stopped and there is now only a brisk breeze blowing. Mariano has already done a lot of driving and tomorrow we go home which for them will be about 13 hours of drive time. We have spent very little time in San Martin itself so decide we will stay close to town. Mariano suggests driving to Villa Quila Quina for lunch and then come back to town to check out the shops. Sounds like a great idea and so once again we get ourselves and the dogs together for the day. Although only 18 km (12 miles) from San Martin, Quila Quina is a world away from the bustle and tourist atmosphere of San Martin. Access to the tiny village is either by boat or road and although the boat sounds fun, since we have the dogs we will take the car. It is no sooner than we make the climb up from San Martin that we make the turn to go back down the other side of the mountain into the village. The road is steep and narrow as we twist down the winding road to the edge of Lake Lacar. There are a couple of small boats bobbing at the dock and a few people milling around but that is all. However, there is a restaurant serving amazing seafood that is quite busy. We decide to eat first and explore afterwards. The food was delicious with fresh fish and side dishes. We then collected the dogs and walked along the lake edge, away from the few houses that make up the village. As the dogs ran and played in the water, we passed families picnicking, and a corral full of horses that we presumed you could hire. There were a few stands selling Mapuche handmade items which we browsed but mainly we stayed close to the lake and let the dogs run. At lake edge there are some beautiful old cypress type trees with huge gnarled trunks and exposed roots which spread into the lake itself. They were fascinating to check out. We also passed a gorgeous, well-tended garden belonging to a local Mapuche family. The well planted array of lilies, orchids, roses and flowering cacti were vivid in color and variety. Reluctantly we left so we could get back to San Martin in time to do a little shopping. After such a fantastic few days, I wanted to buy Mariano and Marcela a Thank you gift. Mariano went to the clothes store that sells his favorite brand of clothing, Patagonia, while Marcela and I browsed the artisan shops. She found a beautiful scarf made from rabbit fur and embroidered braided material in white, which she loved but thought too expensive. As she went to look at another store, I went back and had the lady gift wrap it for me. I met back up with Marcela who was buying a few small items as gifts for her housekeeper. Mariano was easy to buy for. One of his passions is cooking and cookbooks, so I went to a bookstore I had seen and got him two local cookbooks. Mariano met back up with us, he had purchased a shirt and some pants, both Patagonia brand. Everyone seemed pleased with their respective purchases. After we had showered and dressed for dinner, we opened a bottle of wine at the cabana and toasted our trip and one another. I gave Marcela and Mariano their gifts, which they loved and Mariano surprised us with a present each. In one of the artisan stores he had seen us look at some handmade toothpicks in a decorative holder to be used when serving appetizers but we had decided not to buy them. He had went later and picked up a set for each of us. I couldn’t help but feel the warm glow that comes around good friends who appreciate and have fun in each other’s company and to think if our transmission had not broken down for a second time in Rada Tilly, we would never have met them. God truly operates in mysterious ways.

Cascada Chachin & Hua Hum

The morning of our second day in San Martin found our weather to be much of the same with gusty winds and intermittent but heavy rains. Undeterred Mariano selected another route this time though not quite as far as yesterday which will take us past the small village of Yuko, Lakes Lacar and Nonithue, up to the border area with Chile known as Hua Hum. However our main objective is to do the short hike to Cascada Chachin. The waterfall comes from the snow melt that creates the Chachin River and Lake Queni. At this point, from an elevation of about 625 meters, it cascades over a stretch of the Andes into Lake Nonthue. A total round trip of 96 km or about 60 miles but still on dirt roads made muddy and slippery due to the rain. We bundle up in warm clothing and make sure that we have a spare towel for drying the dogs who are quite excited at the prospect of another day of jumping through puddles and going on walks. On the way up, we pass many cars coming in the other direction. One waves us down and tells Mariano that the road ahead is horrendous and that we will need four-wheel drive. I suggest turning round but Mariano thinks the jeep can make it and decides to give it a try. Making our way through puddles, ruts and past the small occasional landslide we drive past the pampas or plateau and up into the mountains, stopping only to give the dogs a quick walk. After making the turn onto yet another side road even more rutted than the last, we eventually came to the trail head leading to the falls. At this point we are only about 4km from Paso Hua Hum at the Chilean border. From here we have to walk and fortunately for us, the rain has stopped and the wind abated. Also the dogs are allowed on the trail with us. Stopping along the way to check out the different types of trees like the Maniu which only grows where the rainfall exceeds 3,000mm per year, fauna, ferns and some incredible fungi, we made our way slowly up the trail. The old trees with huge masses of entangled roots that mark their place in the mountains help show the natural state of the area. Occasionally there are openings between the trees where the wonders of the lake and mountains beyond are revealed with incredible views. After only 20 minutes or so, we reached the viewing platforms for the falls. The falls are quite amazing but more than that is the silence, broken only by the sound of water. It was as though we had arrived at some secret spot known and revered only to the indigenous Mapuche. It was at that moment I was glad we had persevered. What a place. On the way back to the car, I kept turning 360 degrees to absorb the magic of the area. On the way back to San Martin, we were all glad we had kept to our plan and made it. Cascada Chachin is definitely worth the trip.

Lanin National Park, Pehuen forest, El Escorial and Termas de Lahuen

When we got up the next morning, those ominous clouds from yesterday had formed into a full blown storm. With blustery winds and some fairly heavy rain at times, we reviewed our options and decided to keep to our plan and go into Lanin National Park to the border pass into Chile at Paso Carirrine. It is 160 km (100 mile) round trip but Mariano is ok with the drive. Lanin Park, established in 1937 to preserve the north Patagonian Andean forest is the 3rd largest park in Argentina, covering an area of over one million acres. It is bordered on the west by Chile and to the south by Nahuel Huapi National Park. As we turn west halfway between San Martin de los Andes and Junín de los Andes along a dirt road, which today is quite muddy, we head deep into the temperate rainforest of the park. The topography is interesting, transitioning from pampa to smaller, rolling hills and then the majestic Andes. One of the most notable peaks to be seen is the Lanín volcano. Its impressive height of 3,776 meters (over 12,000 ft) means it towers over every other nearby mountain, making it the focal point from every angle. The magnificent peak is further accentuated by its permanent covering of snow. As we climb higher we pass Lakes Curruhue Chico and then Curruhue Grande. With no break in the rain, we decide to stop and walk the dogs by a small waterfall which drains from Laguna Verde into Lake Curruhue Grande. This is also an Araucaria forest. Araucaria trees (also known as Peheun or Monkey Puzzle trees) are an evergreen conifer pine indigenous to the temperate rainforests of Argentina along the eastern slopes of the Andes. The species is officially protected in Argentina and is a little different from the national tree of Chile, which is also a species of monkey puzzle tree found in that country's south central regions. Threatened by fire, logging and grazing, the tree grows to about 45 meters in height (140 feet) and lives up to a thousand years in the volcanic soils. They produce edible seeds which are prized for their high carbohydrate content and were an important part of the diet of the Pehuenche people who once inhabited the area. Hence their name as the Pehuen tree. I happen to think that these are one of the most fascinating trees in the world. The foliage which stick out from all kinds of crazy angles hang exactly like monkey’s tails although these are thick, bushy and green, many with pods on the tip. By the time we had finished walking to the waterfall and photographing the trees, we were all thoroughly wet and cold. We quickly toweled off the dogs as best we could and scrambled back into the jeep, where Mariano turned on the heat and we thawed out a little. Our next stop is at El Escorial, an ancient river of petrified lava rock. Along the road there is a bridge built over the rock to show where the lava flowed over the road and down the canyon. From the car we can see it beneath us and all around us and there is still evidence of where it decimated everything in its path and then solidified. It was quite formidable and is a sobering reminder of the devastation an eruption can bring to an area. From this point it is only a short drive to the Termas del Epulafquen, the thermal hot springs. Access is down a rutted road which we missed the first time and it was only when we were a kilometer or so from the Chilean border pass of Carirrine that Mariano turned around and driving even more slowly than previous, eventually spotted a dilapidated sign pointing the way down a hill. Just a few years ago, this was a spa and resort hotel that offered luxury amenities. I am guessing it didn’t work out. Today, the hotel is abandoned and of the seven thermal pools, only two small ones remain, one of which was surprisingly inhabited by a local Mapuchean family. We walked over the rickety wooden walkway to the pools and Marcela took my photograph as I tested the water with my hand. “Would you go in if we had brought swimsuits?” she asked me. I told her I would. I mean we had come all this way and the water felt marvelous considering the cold, rainy weather. Besides the local family looked like they were having fun although I think they were surprised to see us. As we got back in the jeep to head home, we pondered on ways that would make the thermals into a successful business enterprise. Given the remoteness and the difficulty of getting there, we concluded that the only way to make money was to turn it into an exclusive high dollar resort whereby guests were flown in by helicopter and treated to a sumptuous, elegant retreat that only the very rich could afford. Since we do not have the funds for such an expensive venture, we laid the economics to rest and took on the easier task of deciding where to eat dinner. The night before we had eaten at La Tasca, a favorite of Mariano and Marcela. We had checked restaurants on the internet and talked about our choices. We decided on Ku, another upscale parrilla style restaurant. We arrived back at the cabana with plenty of time for Mariano to take a quick nap and Marcela and I to check out our emails and get ready for dinner. After such a long day and with plenty of walks fortunately even the dogs are content to relax as the rain and winds continue.

San Martin de los Andes at Carnival

After saying a fond “adios” to Luis Felipe, Cristobal and the others, Mariano loaded our luggage into the jeep along with the dogs and we took off for our 4 days in San Martin de los Andes. Along the way, to better improve my Spanish, Marcela had me read from the newspaper about things to do and restaurant reviews for San Martin de Los Andes. I had to read and then translate what I thought I was reading. Pronunciation was corrected as was my interpretation of the article. Only when Marcela was satisfied, could I move on. I think both Mariano and I heaved a sigh of relief after the ordeal but I know that this is really the only way to move ahead in my Spanish. I was also distracted because of the amazing scenery. We were traveling along the road known as the “Route of the Seven Lakes”. Shortly after leaving Villa La Angostura, the road is unpaved gravel which gets quite sinuous as it climbs into the Andes. As we get higher in elevation, the views just get more and more outstanding. We can also see some quite ominous clouds gathering over the mountains which would seem to be a pre-cursor for storms in the next few days. Two hours of driving from Bariloche gets us into the small but bustling town of San Martin de los Andes. Founded in 1898 on lands that belonged to the Mapuche Indians, this charming mountain town of 35,000 or so inhabitants is located on the tip of Lago Lácar between high mountain peaks. The town is considered the tourism capital of the Neuquen province and that is believable judging by the quantity of arts-and-crafts shops, gear-rental places, restaurants and hotels that make up much of the downtown area. San Martin has grown considerably in the past few years, but a city law that limits building height and regulates architectural style means the town has kept its quaintness and mountain, village-like atmosphere. It is also the starting point for entering Lanin National Park where we intend to do some sightseeing in the next few days. It is way past lunch time and we can’t check into our cabana until 3pm, so Mariano suggests some lunch. We walk the dogs along the lakeside for a while and then eat at La Costa. The town is busy with tourists due to Carnival and although crammed, we are shown to a table and the service was attentive. Afterwards it is time to check into our cabana. When Marcela and Mariano had made the reservation, the first comment was that no pets were allowed. Then they said that small pets were okay. Mariano registered us and as we walked to our unit, the manager checked us out. “That” she said pointing to Pelusa who is a Jack Russell terrier “is a small dog and that” as she stared at Winston “is not”. The lady was very good natured about it and just reminded us to keep the dogs on leash through the grounds. The cabana was super. Three stories, with living area, dining, kitchen and a bathroom on the ground floor, a queen bed suite with sitting area and bathroom on the second and a third floor with 4 twin beds and bath. After checking out the place Marcela and Mariano wanted me to have the queen bed suite. “That’s nonsense” I said “Winston and I will be fine on the third floor”. It took a little persuading but finally they came to my way of thinking. As I settled into the room at the top, I was elated. Here I am with great friends who have invited me on a fabulous 4 day adventure of new sights, great restaurants and some relaxation and Winston got to come too. Fantastic!

Blessings in Disguise

I settled into a routine that worked for both Winston and me. He could not be let off leash at the campsite, so I would walk him in the morning and then after breakfast we would walk to the local tiendas for groceries. After that we would hang around the campsite with forages to the beach and local parks. The campsite is busy and we have plenty of people camping around us. The one good thing happening is that my Spanish is improving by leaps and bounds. One couple Daniel and Ana, after learning that I was alone invited me to an assado at their campsite which was really enjoyable. I spent a delightful evening with them over a wonderful meal that Daniel cooked. Nahuel and his wife Sofia, Val and Alexandra, the workers at the campsite and Juan the owner are all solicitous in checking on Winston and me and making sure I do not get too lonely. Mariano and Marcela called and let me know that there is vacation time approaching. Carnival, the five days before Lent is a huge holiday in Argentina, so they have time from work. Their intent is to go to another town in the mountains, San Martin de los Andes and Winston and I are invited. They emailed and called the campsite for me to be ready. They will arrive Saturday and after spending the night we will travel to San Martin where they will rent a cabana for all of us, dogs included. I checked in with Juan to be sure all is ready for their arrival. During that week, a group of five guys arrived at Petunia and set up their site next to mine. From their car I knew they were from Chile and they seemed good natured and introduced themselves to me. A couple of days later I needed to go into town to the post office to collect a new electricity converter that Tom had sent from the States. My new Chilean neighbors offered to drive me. Luis Felipe and Cristobal would take me while the other three stayed at camp with Winston. Driving to town we chatted about family and background. They knew about Tom and asked if I had children. I said that we have two, a son Daniel and a daughter, Nicole. Making conversation, I then commented that I presumed they were single since they were vacationing with friends. There was a distinct silence and then Luis turned – he was also driving, by the way – and said “yes, I guess you could say we are single, we are priests”. More silence while I took a few seconds to mull this over. “Um, priests, like Catholic priests? I finally asked. Luis laughed and then said “well yes, though actually not all of us. I am a deacon with a parish in Santiago, Cristobal will be a priest in a couple of months and the other three are friends from the seminary”. Now, I am trying to think back and hope to heck I haven’t cursed in their presence. “But seriously, you are priests, I never would have guessed” I think I was stuttering. In all sincerity, I have never hung out with priests before and they definitely did not look like priests. They are young and dressed in shorts, T-shirts and well, are just like regular young men. After assuring me they were indeed truly priests, I admonished them. “You guys have to give people warning, like wear a priest collar or something, just to give us lay people a heads up”. Both Luis and Cristobal were laughing really hard by the time I was finished with my warning spiel. And so was I. And so started a great friendship. Both Tom and I are Catholic and over the next few days I broached many subjects with my new friends – the role of the church with our young people, the evolving nature of the church and the controversial issues of Catholics who choose to live together but not marry (of whom we know many), gays who are committed to one another and who are Catholic but trying to find their place in our religion (being from the Bay Area we know some) and on whether priests should be allowed to marry. I can only say from the responses that these are dedicated, reasonable men whom the Catholic Church should be honored to have in their midst. They are smart, educated and tolerant and understand that changes will likely happen within our religion albeit slowly. That Saturday, Marcela and Mariano are due to arrive and I will barbeque for everyone. Now, in a country of barbeque (parrilla) cooking, Tom has always done the outside cooking, so it was only after I grandly announced my intentions to cook that I realized I was not even sure how to light the fire. Priests to the rescue. Cristobal, as it turns out is a master at the grill. Thank goodness. After the grill was lit and we had opened some wine, they asked if I knew what time Marcela and Mariano would arrive, “Not sure”, I replied. They are coming from Comodoro Rivadavia, and that is 10 hours driving time, or so. It was then Luis shyly came up and said “We have a gift for you”. They then presented me with a small statue. “It is blessed,” said Luis Felipe, “and also we would like to bless you and the motorhome”. He produced a small bottle of water. I am not going to blame the wine but before I could stop myself, I started laughing “Gosh Luis, thank you but to bless me and the motorhome maybe you should bless the lake and run a hose here and douse us both” In my defense after all the mechanical problems we have had, the lake seemed more apropos. Luis also laughed but assured me more was not better and proceeded with the blessing. And so it was that as I was standing still and with Luis Felipe doing the blessing and incantation, Mariano and Marcela arrived. “What’s going on?” asked Marcela as she checked out Luis and me. “Shh!” I admonished her “Me, Winston and the RV are getting blessed”. Nonplussed comes to mind. Maybe she thinks I’m losing my mind with Tom being gone. I then introduce her to Luis Felipe, Cristobal and the others and explained the situation and the circumstances leading up to the current events. A glass of excellent Malbec also helped her – it had been a long drive. “Well, that kind of explains it, I guess,” she begrudgingly gave me. In the meantime Mariano was helping Cristobal at the grill. Pretty soon, everyone was chatting and behaving as comfortable friends should, although Marcela could not resist one last dig. “Only you”, she said, “only you could attract such a diverse group of people and by the way…are these really priests?” I could only laugh. We enjoyed a fabulous assado accompanied by plenty of excellent Argentinean Malbec. Tomorrow, Marcela, Mariano and I, with the two dogs will go to San Martin de los Andes and so will Luis Felipe and the others but since we will be staying at different places, we may not see them again. Well not this time but soon. Luis Felipe will be ordained in April at the Cathedral in Santiago to his new parish and I have told him that we will try to attend. In the meantime on this beautiful star-filled night I can only truly Thank God for providing me with the gift of returning friends and the meeting of new ones. Friendships really are life’s blessing in disguise.

Los Arrayanes National Park, Isla Victoria and Llao Llao Hotel.

To say that Winston was thrilled to see me would be a huge understatement. The boy went crazy. It took me a couple of days to settle in and recover from jetlag, the arduous flight back and finding a routine that worked for myself and Winston. It was strange after 3 plus years of togetherness not to have Tom around. After all we had gotten used to just the two of us, in a small space and moving to another city whenever we felt like it. Marcela and Mariano knew I had returned alone so I received an email saying they would visit the following weekend. Our goal is to visit another national park and to have dinner at the Llao Llao Hotel. I am looking forward to seeing them again and immediately booked one of the cabanas for their arrival. Los Arrayanes National Park and Isla Victoria are only accessible by boat or by hiking 13 miles from the town of Villa La Angostura, located about 60 miles from Bariloche on the other side of the lake. It did not take too much thought or time to decide that we would opt for the boat ride, which leaves from Puerto Panuelo. On our way, we passed the small capilla of San Eduardo. The beautiful log and stone chapel with its gorgeous stained glass windows depicting religious scenes was built in 1938 by the architect Bustillo, who also designed the nearby and equally amazing Hotel Llao Llao. The chapel is considered to be one of the most popular places to hold a wedding in the country. We also pass the sumptuous Hotel Llao Llao where we intend to have dinner later. There are a couple of boat companies that run the tours and we chose the Cau Cau simply because it fit into our schedule. The boat is also called Cau Cau, which I think means a type of large gull. On the way to Los Arrayanes, the boat company invites people to the open top deck and to attempt to lure the seagulls which are following us, with pieces of bread and crackers. The idea is to hold your hand up and a gull will swoop down and take the offering from your hand. Naturally they have a couple of photographers ready to catch this, so they can sell you the photo. Hmm. It did not take us long to realize that statistically the odds of catching a gull in the act, so to speak was slender. Yep, you probably guessed – Photoshop!! They capture the person holding up the food and then from an assortment of gull photos, do a “cut and paste” job. Gimmicky, touristy, kitschy but from the number of people who ordered one, profitable. We can only hope the rest of the boat trip is better. First stop, Los Arrayanes National Park. This small park, located on the Quetrihue Peninsula was established to protect the Arrayanes trees, a type of cypress. The bright, cinnamon colored bark and the extraordinary shape of the trunk and branches are what make these trees so unique. The park, itself has easily accessible walkways and the self guided tour was enjoyable. This is also the same forest that is rumored to be the area where Disney perceived the idea for Bambi. This is story is perpetuated throughout the area and many Argentineans believe it to be true, including Marcela. She was quite disappointed when the tour guide announced that this is just a myth, a tale that somehow came about and just won’t go away. Despite that, we all enjoyed our walk through the forest, admiring the centuries old trees. From there, it was back on board to Puerto Anchorena on Isla Victoria. We were treated to a walk with an English speaking guide through a part of the island. The guide was fairly knowledgeable as long as you don’t ask too many questions! That threw him off his learned speech and outside of that, he could not answer some of my questions regarding the history of the island, native birds, trees and the like. I finally stopped asking and let him just conduct the tour. I can always look things up online later. From some of the higher elevations though, we did get fabulous panoramic views of the lakes and mountains. There was also a coffee shop to get drinks and snacks. The 40 minute ride back to the mainland concluded the five hour tour. All I can add is that for the cost, the tour was just like the seagull photos. Very touristy and expensive and with so many other things to see and do in the area, not really worth the time and money. Pelusa and Winston have been alone for much of the day and were very glad to see us return to Camping Petunia. That excitement diminished substantially when they realized we were leaving them again to go to dinner at the Hotel Llao Llao. The hotel is located to the west of Bariloche, in the foothills of the Andes on a hill between Nahuel Huapi and Moreno lakes and has quite a history. The original hotel was destroyed by fire soon after its completion in 1939. A year later Bustillo rebuilt it out of reinforced concrete and stone. The hotel was closed down in 1976 due to lack of funds to maintain it but in 1993 was bought, renovated and reopened. In 1999 the hotel became a member of “The Leading Hotels of the World” and has won many awards since its re-opening, including "Best Hotel and Resort in Argentina" in 1999. When you see this hotel the term “location, location, location” comes to mind. The setting, the grounds and the views from the large windows throughout the lobby and ground floor are truly spectacular. The entrance is massive and made from stone and wood. Adjectives like lavish, opulent, grand and sumptuous come to mind to aptly describe the interior décor. Huge wood beams and columns dominate with gorgeous couches and chairs strategically placed to better enjoy the views. We had made reservations to eat in the restaurant “Assador”. As the name suggests, this is their parrilla and the food and service were outstanding. Mariano ordered the wine and we toasted our good fortune at being in such a beautiful place. The whole experience was so delightful that we decided to eat at one of the other restaurants in the hotel “Café Patagonia” the following night. If you go, you must order the ciervo (venison) empanadas. Without a doubt, hands down, the best empanadas – ever! The three days with Mariano and Marcela went by much too quickly and Monday morning found Winston and me by ourselves again but with more good memories of time spent with our friends from Rada Tilly.