Jeanne’s Day – President of ACOG

After all of our sight-seeing, it was time for the main event, the primary reason for coming to New Orleans. Jeanne’s inauguration as the new President of the American College of Obstetrics and Gynecology (ACOG). We were instructed by Bruce to be at the Hilton no later than 8 in the morning and we would all walk to the convention center as a family. Jeanne was going to leave much earlier, of course, with her daughter Erin who was going to help her get ready, hair, makeup, whatever. Arriving at the center, I was surprised by all of the protestors hanging around waving placards. Surprised, but I guess I shouldn’t have been, this is after all an Ob/Gyn conference and as such these doctors do perform legal surgeries like abortion and circumcision in addition to providing vital care for women in the way of preventative care, prenatal care and safe pregnancies and births. But these demonstrators seem to forget the positive to focus on the negative. In addition, it never fails to amaze me that the majority of protestors are men! What’s that about? And it is a Wednesday morning, don’t they have jobs? Oh, well to each their own. It is their legal right to protest and they should remember that the doctors are not breaking any laws either. Inside, the place was packed and this is a big place and security was ever-present. Much of it had to do with the fact that one of the star attendees was the First Lady of Zambia, Dr. Christine Kaseba-Sata. She was going to be honored with an award for her progressive policies in Africa for promoting and advancing women’s health care, not only in Zambia but throughout the region. We were seated in the front row and so had great views of the stage plus the giant monitors on each side. The current president gave an introductory speech and several awards including the one to the First Lady and then he introduced Jeanne. She entered the room flanked by her closest friends, other doctors who have helped her along the way. We were all standing and cheering as she made her way to the podium. After all the applause died down, she then very ceremoniously introduced each and every one of us, her family to the audience. By the time she got to Bruce and her children Erin and Ryan, we were all standing again clapping and cheering for her. She was so visibly moved by everyone being with her at this moment. Her speech was amazing and that is not just because I am biased! She talked about the year of the woman, preventative health care for “every woman, every time”. In fact, that was a standing mantra throughout her speech, which if anyone is interested can be accessed via YouTube, Twitter or the ACOG website. “Every Women, Every Time”. Afterwards there were the obligatory photographs both official and professional and amateur. After chatting with the Ambassador of Zambia for a while, I also had the pleasure of meeting the First Lady, Dr Christine Kaseba who was very charming and spoke excellent English. After the convention, we left for a scheduled lunch at Commanders Palace. Bruce and Jeanne had arranged this for the family and about 30 or so friends and colleagues of Jeanne. Leaving the convention center for the restaurant, we noticed that most of the protestors had dissipated, thank goodness – must have gotten paid to attend another gig! For anyone who is going to New Orleans, Commanders Palace Restaurant should be on their list of places to eat. Both Tom and I agreed that of all the restaurants we have been to, this was one of the top five in terms of well everything. The food was excellent and the service and attention to detail was just outstanding. It was a fitting climax to a remarkable day. Congratulations again to Dr. Jeanne Conry.

The National World War II Museum.

This museum dedicated to the Second World War is without doubt one of the best I have ever seen and I have visited hundreds of museums. Opened on June 6, 2000, the 56th anniversary of D-Day, the museum which is affiliated with the Smithsonian Institute focuses on the contribution made by the United States to the victory in Europe, the Invasion of Normandy and the Allied strategy in the east which culminated with the nuclear attacks on Hiroshima and Nagasaki. The museum originally opened as the much smaller National D-Day Museum, focusing on the amphibious invasions of Normandy and the Pacific As the Higgins Boats which were vital to the D-Day success were designed, built, and tested in New Orleans by Higgins Industries, the city was the natural home for such a project. Also, New Orleans was the home of historian Stephen Ambrose, who spearheaded the effort to build the museum. Now, thanks in part to a $15 million dollar donation from Boeing Corporation and a $20 million dollar grant from the Department of Defense, the museum is in the middle of a $300 million capital expansion campaign called The Road to Victory: A Vision for Future Generations. The entire project won’t be completed until 2015 and as we moved between buildings, at times we had to cut through construction areas. After purchasing our tickets, our first stop was the Solomon Victory Theater to see the 4D movie “Beyond All Boundaries”. Produced and narrated by Tom Hanks, the 4-D technique engages all of your senses with digital effects, life-sized props, animation and atmospherics as well as film and sound, but it is not all glitz. The movie reveals the huge human loss with quotes and photos while incorporating vintage black and white film footage. From the comfort of the armchairs thanks to technology, we could feel the tanks rumbling across North Africa's deserts, brush snow from our faces during the wintery Battle of the Bulge and flinch as anti-aircraft fire tries to bring down the enemy aircraft. The first-person accounts from letters written in the trenches to home, read by Brad Pitt, Tobey Maguire, Gary Sinise, Patricia Clarkson, Wendell Pierce and lots of other actors are poignant and heart wrenching. Leaving the theater there were many people myself included wiping away tears. I needed a break so we stopped off at the Stage Door Canteen for a beer before heading to the next pavilion. If you love old Hollywood, there is a special display here of Bob Hope which tells the story of his passion to entertain the troops. How he could be funny in the midst of some of the most tragic days of our history is unbelievable. Besides Bob Hope, there were some great photographs of other Hollywood legends that made trips to entertain the military often at great personal risk. All the while there is the music and songs of the war years sung by The Victory Belles. After that break, it was on to the newest building. Opened in January, the US Freedom Pavilion: The Boeing Center is a huge atrium, several stories high with two multi level sections and numerous catwalks. We have tickets for “Final Mission: The USS Tang Submarine Experience” and the next voyage is about to start. Before boarding the submarine, we are all given a “watch bill” representing a specific Tang crewmember and after boarding, we are shown to our station and enlisted with certain tasks of running the submarine or firing its weapons. The date is 25th October 1944 and this is the USS Tang’s fifth (and final) war patrol in the Pacific. In any other context this would classify as one of the cheesiest things I have ever participated in. However, in re-enacting this last, epic battle I feel a deep appreciation of the bravery of those men who served in the confined space of submarine warfare and at the end of the experience, we are confronted with a wall with the names of those on board. By matching up our watch name, we find out if we were one of those lost at sea or became a POW. Entering the atrium, the collection of aircraft includes a B-17E Flying Fortress bomber, a B-25J Mitchell bomber, a SBD-3 Dauntless, an Avenger, a P-51D Mustang and a Corsair F4U-4, all restored to their wartime glory. These were not models or replicas, but real WWII planes suspended from the ceiling. The B-17E is the airplane dubbed My Gal Sal, famous for having been lost in a mission over Greenland and recovered 53 years later. Walking between the levels and along the catwalks, we can see the planes from top and bottom and every vantage point in between. On the ground floor, the vehicle of war exhibit also displays a restored jeep, Sherman tank and an ambulance. On a vast, 31-foot HD video wall is a montage of rare archival footage showing the iconic American arsenal at war. The Service & Sacrifice experience honoring American patriots who have dedicated their lives in times of war and peace is introduced by the late Senator Daniel Inouye of Hawaii, himself a World War II veteran and Medal of Honor recipient. The interactive touch screen exhibits the profiles of World War II veterans who went on to serve as Presidents, Vice Presidents, Supreme Court Justices, Senators and Representatives. Another thought provoking interactive exhibit is titled “What Would You Do?” and presents difficult decisions faced by real people during World War II. Put yourself in their shoes with the thought-provoking scenarios that hold strategic, moral and ethical significance and you realize nothing is black and white. The final part of our visit was to the Louisiana Memorial Pavilion which houses the museum's reproduction of the LCVP (Landing Craft Vehicle Personnel) or Higgins boat that carried thousands of Allied soldiers to the beaches of Normandy during the D-Day invasion of June 6, 1944. It was reproduced from original WWII plans by more than 100 volunteers, many of whom were former employees of A.J. Higgins, Inc., the New Orleans-based shipbuilding company. The interactive visual display panels detailing the schedule leading up to D-Day and the events as they occurred that day are incredible. The mission of the museum focuses on the remembrance and celebration of the American spirit; the courage and sacrifice of the men and women who served during World War II and many of the volunteers here are veterans who are informative and take their time to help you make the most of the visit. The displays allow you to walk through history, examining the European events vs. the drama of the Pacific. If you never understood the Normandy invasion, the visuals will help you put the pieces together. I came away grateful to Mr. Solomon for creating such a memorable museum. To all who served and continue to serve; thank you, thank you, thank you. Truly one of the best museums I have ever gone through. And I understand why some people still save every scrap of aluminum foil.

Laura: A Creole Plantation - Plantation Visit Part 2.

Our second plantation was Laura: A Creole Plantation and it could not have been more different. This is not a typical plantation home with the elaborate white columned, balconied antebellum mansion. Instead, it is a raised, wooden Creole style home painted yellow and is also surprisingly small. Despite all this, Laura is unique and extremely interesting because visitors become totally immersed in Louisiana’s rich, Creole culture. Louisiana Creoles, from the millionaire to the poorest slave, lived separate from the Anglo-American in family, architecture, music, food, society and life-style. What Laura lacks in grandeur, it makes up in colorful Creole history and characters. The 70 minute tour is based on 5,000 pages of documents from the French National Archives related to the free and enslaved families who lived here and told by guides who share the compelling, real-life accounts of 7 generations of Laura Plantation’s Creole inhabitants. No costumed tour guides here, only enthusiastic historic story-tellers sharing the well-researched history of the family and the plantation from the American Revolution through the Civil War and beyond. Another reason that Laura doesn't look like a grand southern plantation home is because this was a working plantation with a business residence rather than being the primary home for the family who actually resided in New Orleans. The property is restored to historic accuracy and is still surrounded by fields of sugar cane. The tour begins at the main house. Formerly known as Duparc Plantation and shaded by the low branches of large oak trees, the main house is almost hidden from the road. Constructed in 1804-1805, the "big house" at Laura Plantation has a raised brick basement and it is one of only 30 substantial Creole raised houses in the state. It's not a manor like Oak Alley but more a cornucopia of historical detail with the raised basement-turned-wine cellar, the birthing room, and family heirlooms. The rooms painted in alternating shades of ochre, red, green, mauve and gray have been beautifully decorated to provide an idea of daily life. However, a few rooms inside the home have been left unrestored to give a sense of history and to show construction methods. A large collection of family treasures and items of apparel are on display, with some pieces donated to the plantation by families of the original owners. Also architecturally noteworthy are the Federal-style interior woodwork and Norman roof truss which were unusual for later Creole style houses. We are then led to the gardens and the more sobering sight of a dozen slave shacks. The original slave quarters still stand at Laura Plantation and these shacks used to stretch over 3 1/2 miles out. The guide explained that when a bell rang, the slaves would send their small children to walk to the main house to get their family rations. I didn't know what to expect regarding the topic of slavery (which was not discussed at all at Oak Alley) but our guide did not gloss over or sugar coat the way of life during those times. There was a lot of information regarding the family as well as their slaves and their lives and stories. Indeed, Laura Plantation is well known for the West-African stories the home’s former slaves related to folklorist Alcée Fortier. Alcée Fortier, who later became Professor of Romance Languages and folklore at Tulane University, was said to have collected Louisiana Creole versions of the West African Br'er Rabbit stories. Recorded in the slave cabins here in the 1870s, they were later popularized in English and became the “Tales of Br’er Rabbit.” Also, the parents and family of U.S. singer-songwriter Fats Domino ("Blueberry Hill") had lived and worked on the plantation. With 11 structures listed on the National Register, there is plenty of opportunity to explore its newly restored Manor House, the formal and kitchen gardens, Banana-Land grove, and its authentic Creole cottages and slave cabins. The complex continued functioning as a plantation into the 20th century and the slave quarters, which workers continued to live in until 1977, contributes to the historic significance of the complex. Due to its historical importance, the plantation is on the National Register of Historic Places and is also included on the Louisiana African American Heritage Trail. Since opening in 1994, Laura is Louisiana's fastest growing historic attraction. The plantation offers a very tangible explanation of the Creole culture and way of life in Louisiana The tour is worth it because you really get a unique sense of Creole culture. We visited this plantation after seeing Oak Alley and were able to enjoy the extremes in a business-run plantation versus the grandeur of Oak Alley. If you have the time, I recommend going to both plantations as they are very different and will give you a good perspective of both wealthy families, plantations, and the difference between Creole/French and American/English governing, architecture, business, and of course, slavery. However if you can only choose one between Laura and Oak Alley, choose Oak Alley. Yes, I know it is shallow of me but there really is no competition. I liked the tour much better than the one at Laura. The rooms were far more interesting to look at and more opulent. The self guided walks around the property and the spectacular oaks should be a must see for everyone visiting the area and then there were those mint juleps! Yes, they do tend to gloss over the history of slavery, so if you want a more accurate portrayal of what life was like for all of those that lived on a plantation, then Laura would be the right choice or go and enjoy Oak Alley and then read a book about the history of slavery.

Oak Alley Plantation - Plantation Visits Part 1.

About 45 minutes from New Orleans, by the banks of the Mississippi along the winding, picturesque Great River Road, are lavish estates with majestic plantation homes. For hundreds of years the sub-tropical air was filled with the sweet smell of sugarcane and opulence, wealth and culture clashed with slavery and tragedy to make this region, for better or worse, a part of American history. Our first stop on a two plantation tour is Oak Alley. I have wanted to visit this plantation since seeing Interview with a Vampire. In the movie this was Brad’s (Pitt) house and I was not to be disappointed. Leaving the tour bus, when we turned the corner and saw Oak Alley, my jaw dropped. The famous view appeared and it is every bit as stunning as any photograph depicting it. There are no words to describe the transcendent experience of walking down the main avenue toward the mansion. Once there, we were met by two charming people dressed in period costume who offered mint juleps or lemonade. Transcendence in gear. I was feeling mighty parched after all that walking without my parasol. Lord have mercy and pass me the mint julep. For the uninitiated, a mint julep is ice, bourbon and water with a little sugar and mint. But, what they really are is heaven and these are very good. One sip: transcendence is complete and I have stepped back in time. Civil war era. Lookout Rhett and Scarlett. The mansion’s design is Greek Revival architecture, featuring a free-standing colonnade of 28 Doric columns on all four sides, a common feature of antebellum mansions of the Mississippi Valley, though Oak Alley is supposedly one of the finest of those remaining. The pale pink white of the plastered columns and walls and the blue green of the louvered shutters and gallery railing gleam in the afternoon sun. Accompanied by a tour guide in period costume, once inside the house we entered the living room, where we learned the history of the original owners of the plantation, Jacques and Celina Roman. Celina's father built the house for the couple with his daughters comfort in mind. The veranda extends 13 feet from the walls, keeping the home in shade most of the day. As a designer what I found even more interesting was that the tall windows and doors face each other, allowing for cross ventilation and the ceilings are 12 feet high which allowed for maximum comfort during the hot humid summer Louisiana days. Across from the living room was the dining room where Celina hosted many parties. Sipping my mint julep, yes drinks are allowed in the house, I could imagine myself back in the day being entertained here. After the dining room, we headed up stairs where we first saw a sparse, solitary room. This would be in this room that a sick family member who was contagious or one who was dying slept. Oh my, pass the smelling salts; I do believe I'm getting the vapors. Across the hall was the nursery. The Roman's had 4 children, two of whom passed at young ages. Then onto the master suite and a lavender guest suite, lavender was the owner’s favorite color. The tour ends with a stop on the balcony which overlooks the “backyard”. Get your camera ready for the view of the line of oaks from the second floor balcony as the guide theatrically opens the floor to ceiling windows that lead to a balcony. It is an amazing sight. Planted before the house was constructed in 1837, there is an impressive double row of giant live oak trees which form an alley about 800 feet long, from which the property derived its present name. Unfortunately Oak Alley, like all plantations share an unhappy history and it can’t be denied that the wealth that built the property was predicated on slavery. There was nothing on the tour which glorified slavery or excused it but neither was there any real discussion about the slave trade or the slaves’ role on the plantation. There are a few slave cabins which you pass on the way to the house tour and they are currently reconstructing the slave quarters to do a better job of telling the history of the plantation and the South and more sobering (excuse the pun, after the mint juleps) is an inventory of plantation slaves, complete with names and their value taken from a census in April of 1848. But no one really comes here to learn the history, do they? They come for the scenic, picturesque grounds, which are breathtaking, the beautiful antebellum mansion and well, quite frankly the mint juleps which are phenomenal. Pass me another while I walk, otherwise I may swoon from the heat. Oak Alley is iconic for its design, its state of preservation and the unbeatable view of a canopy of aged, gigantic oak trees forming a verdant tunnel of Southern comfort grandeur. The grounds are beautifully maintained with magnolias galore, lush lawns, pristinely kept gardens and meandering pathways that encourage one to slow down, relax, and take it all in. There is also a former office turned into a garage which houses two original Ford Model T automobiles. As you stroll around this beautiful property, preferably with a mint julep in hand, it is easy to imagine a bygone era, and to step back in time. Rhett, I do believe that my corset is laced a little too tight, must be the mint juleps. Frankly my dear I don’t give a damn! Play acting aside, if you're going to visit plantations, definitely make this one of your stops. Yes, the tour was mainly about the white plantation owners with only a cursory mention of their slaves, but the 180-year old restored house is beautiful & the 300-year old oak trees are just outstanding. With knowledgeable and entertaining tour guides all dressed in period clothing which adds to the ambience, lax rules (photography, eating & sipping mint juleps anywhere in the house and property was permitted and even encouraged), I think Oak Alley is absolutely beautiful, interesting, historical, and entertaining. . "Oak Alley”... Home. I'll go home. And don’t worry about Rhett, I’ll think of some way to get him back. After all... tomorrow is another day." (My apologies to Gone with the Wind, Scarlett and Rhett Butler, but Oak Alley brought out the Southern Belle in me). Pass the smelling salts, or better yet the mint julep!

Airboat Tours – A trip to the Bayou.

With Danny here and with a couple of days to spare before Jeanne’s inauguration as President of ACOG, we really want to get out and explore not just New Orleans but the surrounding area. As beautiful, funky and thrilling that New Orleans can feel, guaranteed you'll want to get out of town for a bit once you are done with Bourbon Street and all the action. When you do, go and try a swamp or plantation tour. I'll start by saying that a swamp tour is a very touristy thing to do, but we are tourists and wanted to check it out. Also we want to ride an airboat through the swamps at high speed. Lots of tour companies in NOLA do these tours but at the hotel they recommended “Airboat Adventures” and we were not disappointed. We were picked up from our hotel promptly and the shuttle was clean and air conditioned. Our bus driver was full of stories and jokes as we went and picked up other passengers along the way, giving us hints on where to eat, where to shop, what other sights to see and kept up a running commentary all the way to the docks which is in the Jean Lafitte Preserve. The thirty minutes or so shuttle ride went quickly. Once at the dock there was a small shack for check-in with snacks, t shirts and beverages, as well as restrooms and a small alligator in a pen. A swamp tour sounds like a rural, bug-infested adventure where you meet toothless hillbillies who make you strip and scream like a pig. OK, Tom loves the movie "Deliverance" and I’ve had to watch it many times, and yes, I know it was filmed in Georgia, but, it could happen. Tom, Danny and I sat with just a few other tourists and our tour guide and because we were on the small airboat we will be able to go deeper into the swamps and get really close to the wildlife. Also because of the noise on the airboat when it is going fast, the boat can be very loud; they provide high quality headsets as well. These headsets turned out to be a godsend because as soon as the boat cleared the dock area, we were off and running. My first tip to anyone wanting to do this trip is wear sunglasses. You move fast in these boats. Really fast. Fast enough that your eyes will definitely be watering if you are trying to look forward while you're speeding down the bayou. It is a rush and fun but soon we were entering the swamp area and slowed way down. The first thing I realized is that the swamps are not as wild or bug-infested as you think they would be and the scenery was arrestingly beautiful with the magnolia trees and Spanish moss swaying in what little breeze we were feeling. Louisiana's swamps are breathtaking with their trees dripping with Spanish moss, still waters covered in hyacinth and other vegetation and the stars of the show: the gators. When we were out there among the mossy cypress and with the resident white egrets wading in the shallow water and taking to slow flight, the only thought I had was that an alligator would be a rude interruption. But gators there were and lots of them. Our guide took us to quite a few different areas where alligators like to hang out and we saw at least two dozen of them on the 2 hour tour! He was really good at getting us very close to them and was able to get some of the alligators to come right up to the boat using marshmallows as a lure. Yes, I can tell you, alligators love marshmallows. I didn't think we'd see so many alligators so close up! Most of them are about 6 ft long and are not frightening, though I'd not put my hand near them! Born and raised in the swamps, the guide was funny, educational, entertaining, insightful- especially on socio/economic impacts of Katrina for the area, and above all, clearly respectful of the nature and wildlife in the bayou. He talked about Katrina, the type of people out here, how people make a living, the hunting, the alligators and anything else that came to his mind about the area. I love it when guides give you their personal stories as a balance to the informative parts. He turned some facts into a personal story and even if some of it seemed the stuff of story- telling and we weren't sure that everything he said was true, guessing at the real facts was fun. In addition, he was full of energy and passionate about his work and the Louisiana wildlife. He patiently answered every question we had, and there were a lot! He made the tour extremely interesting, hand feeding the gators and I learned far more about the ecology of the swampland than I ever imagined. Just before heading out of the cypress swamp he pulled out his pet, an 18 inch baby alligator and we all got to pass it around and hold it, its mouth temporarily held closed by a rubber band for safety. We all got a thrill out of this and took plenty of photos. Then came the trip back to the dock and the best part was when he opened up the throttle and we went fish-tailing around curves in the larger bayous. The airboat got up to 35mph. It was awesome! Loud, but awesome! Although there was the ear protection. Back on dry land, the three of us agree that the tour was an outstanding success. There were plenty of times where the boat was moving so fast that I had to look to the side to see anything other than water coming out of my eyes, but there were many, many more opportunities where the guide pulled over and killed the engines and just let us soak up the tranquility of the bayou, take pictures and ask questions about the swamp. It was amazing... who would have thought swamps are so incredibly beautiful! Travel at high speeds and sit low enough to get up close and personal with the baby gators. I guess we are gator addicts now.

Bourbon Street and New Orleans Nightlife

With Danny in town and Tom in the mood to party and with many of the best restaurants in town located in the French Quarter, we descended on New Orleans street to be seen. Welcome to Bourbon Street in the famous French Quarter, where the party literally never stops. There is much to do in the way of entertainment regardless of your taste in music, clubs, food, or my favorite, people watching that this place will keep you entertained for quite a few hours. When the French engineer Adrien de Pauger laid out the streets of New Orleans in 1721, he chose one to carry the name of the French Royal Family ruling at the time - Rue Bourbon. Since then, Bourbon Street has become one of the most recognizable party destinations in the world. Though largely quiet during the day, the Street comes alive at night. Local open container laws in the French Quarter allow the drinking of alcoholic beverages in the street and the tourists take full advantage of it. Popular drinks include the hurricane and resurrection cocktails and of course beer in large plastic cups, all marketed to tourists at a low price. History tells us that over the years Bourbon Street has been home to vaudeville, burlesque, jazz joints and gentlemen's clubs - serving as inspiration for the bawdy, party atmosphere the street is known for today. In addition to venues featuring bands covering all types of other music genre, the street is also home to traditional jazz clubs, upscale lounges, historic restaurants and exotic striptease clubs - it all depends on what you're looking for. But the attraction that ties it all together is the street itself - a carnival of sights and sounds where people from all walks of life come to let their hair down. City officials actually turn Bourbon Street into a pedestrian mall each evening so the street is shut down to vehicular traffic leaving plenty of room for visitors to walk the strip. The party starts at the intersection of Canal Street and Bourbon, where brass bands gather almost every night, filling the street with musicians and dancers. Down Bourbon's thirteen blocks to Esplanade Avenue, the revelry continues beneath beautiful cast-iron balconies, with a seemingly endless row of bars, music clubs and restaurants. The architecture of the old converted mansions is gorgeous although at night it is difficult to see because of all the neon lights. Tom and Danny loved the whole scene, while I found it to be a little seedy. But I did love the old hotels, restaurants and the general bon vive that everyone exhibited. We went to a superb jazz lounge in the fabulously elegant Rita Carlton. The quartet was amazing and it gave us a welcome break from the throngs of people crowding the street. Tom and I even took a turn on the dance floor and did not embarrass ourselves. In fact we enjoyed the music so much we stayed longer than we intended, plus the room and atmosphere was fantastic. On the flip side we also went to the Urban Cowboy complete with sawdust and a mechanical bull. No, I did not try it and neither did Tom nor Danny, thank goodness. From champagne to beer, in the blink of an eye. It's clear why Bourbon Street has become so famous- its laizze faire attitude and lively atmosphere and the people who take part in its traditions are sure to give you something to write home about. Move over Las Vegas, New Orleans is the place for nightlife.

New Orleans Jazz Festival 2013

It is the last weekend of the jazz festival and New Orleans is rocking. Since the first New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival in 1970, the city brims with more music, food, and fun of all kinds than usual. The festival, which typically occurs over the course of two weekends during April to May rivals Mardi Gras, attracts over 650,000 attendees. Back in 1970 that first Jazz Fest was not so well-attended. The inaugural festival began with a midnight concert by Pete Fountain on a riverboat, and only 350 people bought tickets (which cost $3) for the festival days which back then were held in Congo Square. This was roughly half the number of musicians and production staff who actually put the festival on! In spite of the low attendance, that first Jazz Fest was an artistic and critical success. The New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Foundation secured more funding, so a second festival could be held in 1971. Working with money from a loan the second festival in Congo Square, expanded to also use the adjacent Municipal Auditorium and was a huge success, attracting so much larger crowds that it was clear that they would need a larger venue for the third year. It was negotiated to move the Jazz Fest to the infield of the Fair Grounds racetrack, where it has been ever since. As Jazz Fest continued to grow in popularity in the 1980s and 1990s, one of the biggest challenges facing the production staff was attracting interesting and diverse artists. While locals occasionally long for the days when “big-name” acts didn’t play Jazz Fest, those acts serve as a draw to enable lesser-known local bands to get an audience. In the wake of Hurricane Katrina, the Foundation reached out to Royal Dutch Shell, and the oil company became the primary sponsor of Jazz Fest 2006, and each festival since. While it began as a showcase for nothing but local acts, the festival now attracts a number of well known American and international artists. The annual New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival is a rite of spring for hundreds of thousands of people in Louisiana, throughout the United States and around the world. It is, arguably, the biggest and best-attended multi-style music festival in the world and it is the place to hear and see the great names of Louisiana music. Those four original stages have grown to a combined 14 stages and tents, spread out over the Fair Grounds infield and grandstand. This weekend, thousands of locals and visitors will converge on the Fair Grounds Racecourse for the 44th Annual New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival and we will be among them. We all met up at the ticket booth in town and although there were crowds of people, the organization was great and we quickly had our bus and entrance tickets. Those $3.00 dollar days are long gone and the cost of both bus and entry tickets were $75.00 per person per day. Fortunately, there had been no more rain and the mud is not as bad as Erin had told us it was the day before. The sheer size of the fairgrounds took me by surprise. This is a huge affair. Featuring an endless amount of music, succulent local and regional delicacies, one-of-a-kind handmade arts and crafts, second line parades and so much more, there is something for everyone at Jazz Fest! There are 12 stages scattered at intervals throughout the grounds with music playing jazz, gospel, Cajun, blues, R&B, rock, funk, African, Latin, Caribbean, folk, and much more, it is a feast for the ears. Our first stop was, of course the booth selling beer and wine. Need libation for an event like this but we were also eyeing the food booths. And the food is something else. The official food policy of the Festival is "no carnival food” so all food vendors are small, locally owned businesses and there are more than seventy food booths, all with unique Cajun and Louisiana specialties. In addition, most of the foods are made with fresh, local ingredients, and are prepared by hand. There are also craft booths dispersed throughout the grounds in three areas containing pieces from local, national, and international artisans, and have the atmosphere of a true marketplace. Many of the artisans utilize ancient crafting techniques and visitors can watch demonstrations of metal, painting, pottery, and fiber works. There are naturally all kinds of shirts, t-shirts, hats and other articles of clothing which advertize the fact that yes, you have attended the Jazz Festival, so yes, being tourists we purchased shirts for everyone plus Danny and Nicole. Erin did not want to miss seeing the band “The Black Keys”, so after wandering around the various stages, we made our way to where they were performing in order to get, at least a view. Fortunately monstrous monitors are set up so that we can get close ups and the music is definitely loud enough to hear. By the time the band started, we were all working on our second and in Tom’s case, third drink of the afternoon which combined with the heat made it quite heady. From there, I wanted to see Aaron Neville and the Neville Brothers which because it is later in the afternoon was not quite as crowded. In addition, parades are held throughout the duration of the day by the Mardi Gras Indians, as well as by marching and brass bands from various social aid and pleasure clubs. There was so much to see and do and eat and drink, that by the time we left, we were all exhausted. Now all we have to do is stay awake until Danny flies in. Maybe take a nap since he will probably want to see a little of the night life.