El Brujo Archaeological Complex. Peru

Leaving Huanchaco, our drive today is only 45 mile (70 km) up the coast to a group of ruins collectively called the El Brujo Archaeological Complex which consists of three temples – Huaca Prieta, Huaca El Brujo and Huaca Cao Viejo, with Huaca Cao Viejo being the best preserved. We arrived at the complex late; due to the fact we left Huanchaco late. So, bypassing Huaca Cao where the visitor’s center is now closed, we drove towards the beach and the other huacas, mainly looking for a level area to park overnight. After driving the entire complex, we settled on a spot right on the ocean, in the shadow of Huaca El Brujo. It was quiet for the night and thanks to the total lack of electricity and a clear night, the stars were amazing. The next morning, our first stop is at El Brujo. The guided dirt path takes us up a hill and since there were no signs, we allowed Winston to come along but on leash. At the top of the path, we can see where the archaeologists have cut into the temple to display the adobe brick work of the Moche. No other excavation work has been done at this site, so after taking a few photos, we head to Huaca Prieta. Before the Spanish, before the Inca, before the Chimu and even before the Moche, there was the Prieta Culture. The prehistoric settlement was occupied from between 3100 to 1800 BC. From what archaeologists have studied, there is quite a lot now known about the Prieta people. They are accredited to being the first of the Peruvian agriculturists and in addition to fishing were responsible for the early domesticated cultivation of chili peppers and maize. From soil analysis this culture probably lived in semi-subterranean houses made with stone and clay and covered with whale bones. Unfortunately, it is infinitely more interesting to read about than to see, as due to exposure to erosion, there is nothing remaining but a large mound of stones and ash with nothing left to be restored. The views from the top of the mound though of the surrounding area make the climb worthwhile. The last huaca Cao Viejo, like El Brujo is a temple from the Moche period who reigned up until the Chimu conquered them in the seventh century AD. Looking at the huacas it is hard to imagine a once grand city. It is a challenge that greets any visitor to an archaeological site, but at the El Brujo complex, it’s even more complicated. The Prieta and Moche built their pyramids with adobe bricks, and because of erosion, particularly during El Niño years, the buildings simply washed away. Today, they look more like half-washed-away sandcastles or dirt mounds rather than the towering palaces they once were. Although the ruins don’t look like much on the outside through careful excavation and ongoing preservation work, they have found some remarkable artifacts and uncovered some amazing friezes on many of the interior walls. Due to the objects found, these temples are believed to have been primarily ceremonial burial centers rather than populated towns. However, as the top layers of the pyramids washed down onto the lower levels, they sealed them in, protecting them from the elements. This proved irresistible to grave-robbers and the Spanish colonists who founded a settlement nearby with the main goal of extracting as much of the Moche gold as possible out of Huaca El Brujo and Huaca Cao Viejo. They left huge gashes in both buildings, but fortunately they also left a lot of undiscovered riches behind. The temple wall on Cao Viejo which rises up five stories above the main ceremonial plaza is where human sacrifices were performed in front of onlookers, gladiator style. 1700-year old murals, still plainly visible, are carved into the tiers in the form of a narrative. On one tier, warriors march in a row. On another, a Moche warrior is shown leading ten naked prisoners bound together by a rope around their neck. And yet another portrays the captured soldiers being led to where their blood would be offered to the gods. In addition to the images of sacrifice, other painted and carved murals have been uncovered including mythical creatures, sailing scenes and animals. The greatest discovery at the site, however, was made by an archaeological team in 2006. In a tomb high up the side of the pyramid, researchers investigating an elaborately-painted burial chamber found the mummified remains of a fourth-century Moche ruler. What surprised the researchers was that the remains belonged to a woman. 1500 years before South America had its first female president, the Dama de Cao (or Señora de Cao) ruled from this pyramid. Over the last few years, her story has spread far and wide: a replica of her mummy has toured the world, and National Geographic ran a widely-publicized documentary about her. Yet the Dama de Cao’s resting place is a small museum located at the base of the pyramid. This museum with many of the priceless artifacts found at the sites and the burial chamber where the mummy is displayed along with the numerous objects found with it, is well worth the time spent visiting here. The artifacts are displayed in a linear date manner, with the earliest objects from Prieta shown first and then the later ones, most in perfect condition and makes understanding the advancement of the cultures easy to follow. And the final room, the burial chamber of the Dama de Cao, is far from ghoulish even though her skeleton body is the first thing you see. Very thoughtful and well laid out; the museum definitely captures the imagination. As we leave the ruins, there is a nice breeze from the ocean, but the sun is strong and after walking Winston, we continue our drive. Our goal is to get to Chiclayo which is further up the coast. We have one more set of ruins to visit before finding a surf beach to hang out for a few days.

Huaca de la Luna y de la Sol, Peru

Our final visit to the ruins around Trujillo is to the temple Huaca de la Luna. There are actually two temples set perhaps a quarter mile (500 meters) apart with remnants of a village in between and the site is collectively called Huaca de la Sol y la Luna. But right now there is major excavations going on at Huaca de Sol and in the village so visiting is restricted to the Temple of the Moon. Herve, our now regular driver, picked us up at 10am and drove us first to the ticket booth where a new museum is now built and open to visitors. The museum holds all the artifacts that have been found in the area and because work is still ongoing it gets added to almost daily. As it is there are lots of ceremonial and everyday objects that has already been assembled and very well displayed and labeled. The quality and quantity of the artifacts is quite amazing. This area was where the Mochica culture lived and thrived between 100BC and 650AD, when they were conquered by the Chimu who later built Chan Chan and their own huacas. The Moche abundantly created pottery, textiles and metalwork and thanks to being covered by sand, most of the artifacts are intact and amazingly well preserved. We spent over an hour wandering around the museum, completely in awe of the intricate work that these ancient artisans had made. From there Herve drove us to the temple where we met our guide. Unfortunately, at this time all tours are guided and there were about a dozen people in our group. Although the actual tour is in Spanish, our guide spoke English and readily translated for us the parts we did not understand. The temple is in actuality a massive tomb erected over six centuries. Every 100 years (a generation) one layer was filled in and then another layer added on top, rather like an inverse pyramid whereby the smallest layer is on the bottom. As archaeologists and hundreds of workers peeled away the layers and brushed away the sand and debris, they have slowly uncovered elaborate friezes of stylized figures throughout all the levels with only very slight variations in the pattern and color. Each layer is also riddled with rooms and niches where the dead were buried with their worldly goods and it is from these graves that most of the artifacts in the museum were found. The Moche were also quite sacrificial and in addition to animals there is evidence of prisoners being killed and buried as well. Unfortunately as more is excavated, damage inflicted by later conquerors, the Chimu, the Inca and finally the Spanish is uncovered. Our guide pointed out a wall broken and crushed which they say was done by the Spanish Conquistadors and there are some obvious signs, at least to archaeologists, of mass looting. Like Chan Chan, just the sheer size of the huaca is worth the visit but because of the quality of the preserved site, the friezes are much easier to discern than those at Chan Chan and with the colors used, much more dramatic also. The time and money being spent on excavating this area if continued and if the quality of the preservation remains as high as we saw, this site could one day rival Machu Picchu in its architectural quality and value. As at Huaca Arco Iris, there are some souvenir stands which sell pottery made with the same method as the Moche and using molds found at the site. We bought a couple of pieces for ourselves and a piece for Herve, who has been so informative and kind to us over the last few days. We enjoyed this huaca very much and give it 2 thumbs up. Herve also liked his pottery that we got for him.

Trujillo Photographs, Peru

Copy and paste the link to view photographs. Best enjoyed as a slideshow to read the story in captions. https://plus.google.com/photos/118181109521024542820/albums/5945000354218445441

Trujillo and the Plaza de Armas, Trujillo, Peru

It is Sunday so we take a break from visiting the ruins to go into Trujillo for church. Founded by Francisco Pizarro in 1534, Trujillo was named after his birthplace in Spain. Fed by the Moche River, the fertile fruit and vegetable valley surrounding the town made the city one of the richest of the early Spanish conquests. And that became the Spaniards downfall! The people who lived here did not have to worry about life’s essentials, they were rich. So with life’s basic needs taken care of, they thought and plotted and planned. Trujillo became known as the revolutionary center of Peru and in 1820 became the first Peruvian city to declare its independence from Spanish. The people who came and settled in Trujillo were the independents: writers and poets, including Peru’s most popular Cesar Vallejo; revolutionaries and rebels flourished and the Peoples Workers Party was formed. These original members were later massacred but that did not daunt the people and many others in search of something better, something different moved to the area. At the spacious Plaza de Armas, the polished gleam of the stones was glistening when we arrived early on Sunday morning. This is the main square where the proclamation of the independence of Trujillo took place on December 29, 1820 and today it still looks shiny and new. Trujillo is the personification of old colonial glamour. The flamboyantly, colorful and wrought iron adorned buildings are grandiosely showcased around the gorgeous main plaza. This colorful assembly of old colonial buildings is a feast for the eyes. The brilliant blue with white detail of the Casa de Urquiaga which now is the Central Reserve Bank, the elegant burnt orange mansion that is the Hotel Libertador and the mustard-yellow cathedral and basilica all engage the eye. Interspersed with these large buildings are smaller ones, in an array of colors, all vying for attention. And if that was not enough, in the center of the plaza is the impressive Freedom Statue. Made from granite, marble and copper in Germany by sculptor Edmund Moeller and installed in the plaza in 1929, it is quite amazing. Consisting of three statues on a base, a man bent and cowering, a man with his arms back and then one with his arm raised, making a fist which clearly represents oppression, the struggle for freedom and finally liberation, it is topped by a heralding angel, this statue can definitely be defined as “a work of art”. But it is 9am and every Sunday at this time is the Flag-Raising Ceremony. Three flags, Peru National Flag, the flag from the state of La Libertidad and the city’s flag are raised with much pomp and circumstance. Most of the crowd is Peruvian with only a smattering of tourists and, just like we have experienced elsewhere in South America, patriotism is strong. Everyone sings and knows the words to not only the national anthem but also the State’s anthem. Following the raising of the flags, there is a parade of first military, then police and finally local schools and colleges. The military band plays stirring marching music and the crowds clap and sing the obvious well known favorites. Just like in the States we hear many people complain about the government or services or politicians, but unlike the States, these people revere their military and police and place the honor of these service members in high esteem. It is then time for mass at the cathedral, formally known as the Catedral Basilica Menor of Santa Marta. First built in 1647, the cathedral was the first place in 1662 that the Catholic Church officially supported the Independence Movement. Destroyed by an earthquake, it was rebuilt in 1781 with an architectural style that can only be described as romantic Baroque. Painted a pretty mustard-yellow, it has fleur-de-lis and religious embellishments in a rich cream color and with its smooth plaster finish and slightly rounded corners, it looks slightly Mediterranean. The Cathedral was made a National Historic Monument on August 2nd 1960. Not the largest cathedral we have been in, it is beautiful inside. The segmented ceiling is painted with religious scenes very reminiscent of the Sistine Chapel culminating in a glorious cupola over the altar. This main altar was carved by the Colombian sculptor Gustavo Ignacio Cortes and is free standing so we can walk around and view it from all sides. There is also an image of La Virgen de La Paz thought to have been brought by the first Spanish immigrants, which usually is in one of the side chapels but is brought to the left side of the altar for mass. Many people revere the Virgin and both before and after mass you can see people going up and kneeling in prayer in front of her, gently touching the folds of her dress or placing a flower beside her. I love churches! Mass was simple with only a priest, by himself, no help. One person who sang – beautifully I may add, and a large congregation. After mass although it is only 11am, we are hungry and our destination is Mar Picante, touted in Lonely Planet as the place to eat. They were right. The restaurant is off the tourist track, a short cab ride from the plaza and well worth the trip. Tom had excellent mixed seafood ceviche and I ordered the Cabrito Criolle (Goat with curry type spices over rice). Tom’s plate was laden with seafood, fish, crab, scallops, squid and more and my goat over rice – both dishes was outstanding. Goat, by the way, if it is cooked correctly which is slowly and preferably simmering in a sauce so it doesn’t dry out is delicious! It was then a cab ride home to a pouting Winston who was cheered up by a sampling of my goat that we bought for him and a long walk on the beach from Tom. We chalked today up as being another one of those special days when we participated in a country’s customs, acknowledge the individuality and embrace the patriotism of the country we are visiting. Peru!

Chan Chan, Peru

After the two huacas, it was time to explore Chan Chan. Chan Chan, meaning Sun-Sun is a Pre-Colombian city constructed by the Chimor from the Chimu culture. The adobe city which is the largest of its kind in the world was built around AD 850 and was the center of the Chimu Empire until its conquest by the Inca Empire in AD 1470. It was the imperial capital for the Chimu where it is reckoned around 100,000 people lived. This site was discovered by conquistador Francisco Pizarro and was originally placed on the List of World Heritage in Danger in 1986 because of the precarious state of conservation of the earthen architecture and its vulnerability to the extreme climatic events caused by El Niño phenomenon that affects the northern coast of Peru. Since then the Peruvian government has taken extensive measures to protect, improve and conserve the site. The triangular city surrounded by walls 60 feet high, has ten individually walled citadels or palaces, clearly delineated by high thick earthen walls which form the independent units. Within these units buildings including temples, residences and storehouses are arranged around open spaces including their own reservoirs, and funeral platforms. The wealthiest lived closest to the center while most of the population lived outside and may not have been able to enter the core of the city. The visitor’s entrance is at the Tschudi Complex also now called the “Palacio Nik-An which was one of the later built of the ten palaces. Entering into the massive Ceremonial Courtyard is like stepping back through time. The courtyard is adorned along its four walls with bas-relief imagery. This is our first and it turned out only glimpse that this is a tourist facility. There is a small throne set up with props and a man dressed as a Chinu warrior. For a fee, you can dress up, sit on the bench and with the warrior posing with you, take photos. Well, we are tourists so guess what, I did it. The warrior, who spoke great English, had lived in LA and actually was a licensed plumbing contractor! dressed me up with a breast plate, arm amulets and a couple of different crowns and posed with me while Tom took photos. Tom then stood with him, while I took one of the two of them. Definitely kitschy but what the heck. Leaving the courtyard, the numerous walls throughout the city which served to block wind and absorb sunlight create a labyrinth of passages and alleys. Walking through the adobe city is transcendence in time as the life and beliefs of the Chimu is displayed for all to see. Its great walls displaying the devotion to the ocean and mythological beliefs are prominent throughout. Unlike the Inca who worshipped the sun, the Chimu worshipped the moon. While the sun fuelled the harsh desert-like environment they worked so hard to cultivate and make fertile, the Chimu knew there was a relationship between the moon and the sea – the provider of life. For this reason there were offerings to the moon. Most often these were fruit, chicha, animals and birds but at times the Chimu also offered their children in hopes they would also become a god. This close relationship to the sea can be found through the graphic storytelling on its walls. The adobe bricks are covered with a smooth surface and then decorated with friezes with intricate designs. Depicted in bas-relief are shapes of waves and aquatic life with otters, whales, sea lions, pelicans, numerous fish and shellfish. The sea itself, called Ni, was the center of all life for the Chimu as they depended on it for food. In Chimu life the whale and the otter were both sacred animals and the sea lion also played a special role as they believed the animal would accompany the dead as they passed on to the afterlife. The 12,000 artists that decorated all of the walls lived in a group of structures that were smaller than the nobles but more complex than the huts commoners lived in. We saw their huge walk-in well which is now a small lake with quite a large duck contingent and the mausoleum where the king was buried along with his wives, concubines, servants and other worldly possessions. Yes, the king was dead but the others were alive when they followed him into the afterlife. Walking back to the main courtyard and entrance, we are both astounded at the sheer size of this citadel – the capital city of the Chimu Empire. When we stopped to consider that this is only one of ten palaces that were constructed, it just takes your breath away. It is huge. And decaying, unfortunately. Unlike the Inca, who came later and used stone for their citadels, these earlier cultures relied on adobe clay bricks. Throughout the site, huge canvas covers are erected in an attempt to protect the fragile adobe from further erosion. The extended vision for Chan Chan is that it maintains its status as a cultural symbol for Peru that links the past to the present. The continued conservation and development of the archaeological site will contribute to its value and to the strengthening of Peruvian cultural identity. If only they can figure out a way to stop the darned erosion.

Huaca Del Arco Iris (Huaca Del Dragon) and Huaca Esmeralda, Peru

Since we are staying in Huanchaco for a week or so, we have decided to take in the ruins around here and Trujillo, and there are a few. We do not want to drive the motorhome around so after talking with Edwin at the hostel, he suggested hiring a car and driver who will wait for us at each site. The main reason for this is that there are confirmed reports, and plenty of them, of tourists, especially those not in groups, getting mugged and robbed at these less visited archeological ruins. But hey, you only live once! Our first stop is the museum where we purchase our ticket which is good for four sites. The museum is small but gives a great overview of the Moche and Chimu cultures. The Moche evolved from 100 – 800 AD and the Chimu Empire reigned until it was conquered by the Inca in the late 1400’s. From there, Herve, our driver and now friend and confidant took us to Huaca Del Arco Iris. Huaca means temple so Huaca Del Arco Iris translates to the Temple of the Rainbow. Also known to the locals as Huaca Del Dragon, Huaca del Arco Iris dates from the 12 century and because it was buried in sand until its discovery in the 1960’s, it is one of the best preserved of the Chimu temples. The temple is guarded by both the police and the Dept. of Cultura and Herve takes us from the car to the compound and makes sure we are inside. Upon entering the huaca, a ramp leads to the first level. Figures carved on the walls take the form of a dragon (hence its name). Another ramp smaller than the first, leads to the second level. This level has pits which were possibly used to store food. The walls are slightly pyramidal and covered with repeated rainbow designs. One entire wall has been excavated to reveal stunning multiple carvings of rainbows, dragons, and what some archaeologists believe are male and female symbols of fertility. It is also thought that this may have been a fertility temple because in many ancient cultures, the rainbow represents rain considered to be the bringer of life. The detail and design of these drawings in the adobe mud is phenomenal and highly visible, although erosion through wind, sun and rain is an ongoing problem. There is a tiny souvenir store which makes pottery from molds that were actually found at the site. We bought a beautiful plate decorated in the Moche style. We also noticed that the guards would not let anyone out of the compound until either their taxi driver or in our case Herve came to get us. At no time did we see tourists allowed to walk out unescorted, further proof that they are taking these attacks seriously. The next stop is Huaca Esmeralda. Located in the Esmeralda suburb, the actual original name is not known and Esmeralda simply comes from the farm that occupied this area. In fact, it was the local landowner who actually discovered the site in 1923 when he accidently uncovered the ruins which were buried in sand. With little archaeological study done at this site, much of the information is simply estimated based on its proximity to Chan Chan. Occupying an area of approximately 2,600 square meters, the adobe temple is thought to have been constructed during the early development and building of Chan Chan. It is also thought that originally it could have been a separate palace for a great Chimú lord of the Mansiche area. The temple is made up of two platforms and like Chan Chan; its walls are adorned with sea life and geometric figures (diamonds) all in bas relief. There is a fairly steep ramp that connects the two levels. The first one located near the entrance, was built last and its decoration consists of fish caught in fishing nets. Behind it, the second platform and the oldest has similar decoration to Tschudi Palace in Chan Chan with designs fish, sea birds, waves and nets. Due to erosion from the elements, this temple is not in as good shape as Arco Iris nor is it as well preserved and it is a little more difficult to make out some of the patterns. However, both of these small temples was worth visiting as it really gives a sense of the vast scope of the Chimu culture and helps piece together the extent of the amazing citadel at Chan Chan and the massive Chimu Empire.

Huanchaco, Peru

Huanchaco’s most defining point is the boats that symbolize this area of Peru. Local fishermen and surfers still use the same narrow reed boats, called cabillotos de tortura (little horses from reed) that the Moche used 2,000 years ago. The fisherman straddle the canoe so their legs dangle over each side, just like sitting on a horse (hence the name) and paddle, kayak-style. These fishermen are the only remaining people on the coast who construct and use this type of boat which are long and narrow with a large curved bow rising out the water. The boats themselves only last a few months because they get water-logged, so I figure they get plenty of practice in making them. Walking along the gray sand beach we see rows of the totura reed boats lined up against the sea wall, drying in the sun. Huanchaco is also a great surf spot. Over the days as we walk Winston along the beach, by late afternoon there are many surfers in the water taking advantage of the breaks from the pier. From now through the summer months of November, December and January, we are told the waves just get better and better leading up to the championships. Huanchaco’s other claim to fame is that in 2010, the Long board World Championships are held here in January, attracting many of the world’s leading surfers. Winston loves the long walks and playing in the waves but is not sure about our hostel camping spot. As I mentioned in my last blog, Edwin has a couple of giant tortoises roaming his property. Winston has never seen a tortoise before and is very unsure of what to make of them. He barks, but they ignore him. He gets as close as he dares and barks. They hunker down and put their head inside their shell. Winston gets closer and closer and sniffs them. Out pops their head and they raise up on their legs. Winston freaks out and runs away, turns and barks and the whole scenario gets replayed! Very, very funny to watch. He is also more than a little nervous about the peacocks, which are quite large and are also not scared of him. He just can’t understand why these animals don’t run away so he can chase them. Even the cat stands it ground and hisses at him! Very perplexing to the Beagle brain. We have chatted with Edwin about the ruins that are around here and Trujillo and have come up with a plan for exploration. We also want to go into the city of Trujillo and explore a little but will probably wait until Sunday and go to mass at the cathedral at the same time. All in all, Huanchaco is an interesting beach town with plenty to keep us busy whilst we are here. And if we get bored, we can watch the resident animals harass Winston!