The legendary Route 40 (Ruta 40)

After much deliberation, checking out maps and taking the weather into consideration, we have decided to stay in Chile and go north to Bolivia instead of returning to Argentina and going north. We have loved Argentina. The land, the people, the food and wine and the culture. Buenos Aires, without a doubt is one of the top capital cities in the world. The large cities in Argentina, Cordoba, Bariloche, Mendoza and others are so different yet so enjoyable to visit. The great national parks of the country, Iguaçu, Los Glaciares and Tierra del Fuego to name just a few are incredible. So, why stay in Chile? The main reason was weather, it is now winter and getting unpredictable and that we would, once again be travelling long distances on Route 40 much of which is unpaved. Along with Route 3 on the eastern Atlantic side of Argentina, Route 40 is the other main artery for travel within the country. It also shows the vast diversity of Argentina and because of its diversity it really does deserve something more than just a quick mention. First, it is the longest road in Argentina passing through eleven provinces (states) in the country. Running parallel to the Andes, it is also in certain areas the highest road in the country. It undoubtedly crosses a large part of the most beautiful regions of Argentina, passing through Patagonia, Cuyo, the Central valley and northern Argentina. The road takes you to some of the most important tourist destinations within Argentina and offers the possibility of getting to – get this – a total of 14 National Parks, 26 Reserves and Provincial Parks, 5 “heritage of humanity” sites, 13 ski centers, 18 significant rivers, and countless secondary ones. There are an unprecedented 41 international border crossings along the way, most with neighboring Chile. Yet for all this, much of Route 40 is still only about thirty percent paved with the rest of it being either gravel or dirt and you can drive for miles without seeing another living soul or another vehicle. The wind, which is created from the cold air coming from the glaciers in the Andes, gains momentum as it blows across the pampas and through the valleys and ravines and is phenomenal in its intensity and ferocity. For many miles, the barren, stark landscape, the wind and loneliness of the road are the only companions and it is for this reason, we decided to download some audio books to keep us entertained on these stretches of the journey. Yet, Route 40 possesses a special magic. Travelling this route has taken us close to the land of the dinosaurs, to the world of unique pictographic caves over 9,000 years old and to petrified forests. We have gone from majestic glaciers of amazing beauty and incredible colors to thermal hot springs where the steam and smell of sulphur fills the air. We have passed through lush, subtropical jungle where seemingly everything grows to barren, arid wastelands which appear to be devoid of any living thing through lack of moisture and then by contrast to acres upon acres of grapevines and trees laden with fruit, ripe for making into wines, olive oil and the commercial markets. We have driven for hundreds of miles across the Argentinean pampas with cattle and sheep farms raising the meats for which the country is renowned and we have passed volcanoes one of which, Copahue was still belching steam and ash from its last eruption. We have passed cascading waterfalls, glistening mountain lakes and rushing rivers with world class fishing. And all of this with the glorious backdrop of the jagged snow-capped peaks of the Andes mountain range to our left. I only mention the contrasts since it is these things that help make Ruta 40, one of the legendary, great travel routes on the planet and it embodies the diverse nature of this beautiful country, Argentina.

Our final days in Argentina – for now

I woke up deciding – I could live in Mendoza. I can fantasize about waking up surrounded by vineyards, with nothing to do but explore old and new bodegas and sample new and exciting wines. I figure it would keep me busy for a long time. But then reality set in. We are leaving to continue our adventures but I will return to this area and next time I am staying at Cavas Lodge. Tom agrees because we have had a good time here. Next stop is a small town in the mountains called Potrerillos. Remember those motorcycle tires? Well, Betty and Marcos who inherit them, live there. We have tried to contact them but have not been able to, so we can only hope they are home. On the way we pick up a hitchhiker. David is English. He is 68 and climbs mountains for fun. He is on his way to climb one right now. A big one at 19,000 ft. and he is by himself. My wow and awe factor kick up a notch. I am still amazed at the mix of people we encounter and David is added to that ever growing list. He had attempted to climb this same mountain last week but had been driven off due to bad weather. Returning to town to get his tent replaced, he was now going to attempt the summit for the second time. If this failed then he would have to cancel for the season. As we dropped him off at the start of the dirt road leading to the mountain, he had a 13 km hike before he even got to the base. “Now that is crazy” I said to Tom. We did find out later that after ascending to 10,000 ft, David again had to abandon the attempt because he had temporary blindness in his right eye. In my book, the man is a winner for trying. We were very disappointed when we arrived at Alto Potrerillos only to find that we had missed Betty and Marcos by a couple of hours. They had left for Mendoza. Darn, we may have passed them en route. As it was, we decided to push on to Parque Provincial Aconcagua. I had been talking to Tom incessantly about how much I was looking forward to seeing it. The highest mountain in the both the Western and Southern hemisphere at 22,841 ft (6,959 meters,) Aconcagua is surpassed only by Everest in height. For mountaineers it is also one of the 7 summits of the world. Then came our second disappointment of the day. Earlier than normal because of the strong winter storms that had already developed, they had called people off the mountain and had closed for the winter. Our only view of Aconcagua was from the south face and through binoculars and our camera lens we could see why the south face is considered to be the most difficult to ascend. The snow, which was blowing off the perpetual glacier in billowing clouds by the winds that ravage the mountain, was clearly visible and we did get some incredible photographs. Since the park was closed and with no other place to stay the night, we drove on to the border crossing. The border between Mendoza and Santiago at the Paso Cristo Redentor is considered one of the busiest in South America and judging by the cars, trucks and buses, we have to concur. It is also one of the highest at an elevation of about 10,500 ft. It took us three and a half hours to clear the border and another three hours to descend down the Chilean side. Incidentally this road is thought to be the most winding road in the world and counting the hairpin turns, 27 in all, in a steep descent down the Andes we believe that is true. Accomplishing this part in the dark was taxing on both of us and it was with relief that we arrived in the town of Los Andes, Chile for the night.

Cavas Wine Lodge and thoughts on wine

After visiting Vino Cobos we met another American couple from Naples, Florida who were staying at Cavas Wine Lodge and invited the four of us to come back with them and share in, you’ve guessed it, more wine. Well, that kind of invitation is impossible to turn down. Debatably, but in my book the best place to stay if you want to experience wine producing Mendoza – without an RV, that is - is Cavas Lodge. The boutique hotel set amid vineyards against the backdrop of the snow-capped Andes, is gorgeous in its simplicity. There is a slight Moorish feel to the whole place with curved stucco stone walls and rounded roofs which blend nicely into the landscape. The main building has a reception area, lounge, dining room and outdoor pool. All of the rooms are actually small villas set slightly apart from the lodge and one another along lighted pathways winding through the vineyard. We were shown into the airy lounge which is filled with striking sculptures, modern paintings and comfortable chairs and sofas. After consulting with us, Bob ordered a bottle of chilled Rosé wine, which was perfect for the warm weather day. Owner Cecilia Diaz Chuit came by and was delighted by the gift of a bottle of wine from Vino Cobos which they had bought for her. As we chatted she, like many people, were astonished by our journey and she promised to stay in contact with us. After two bottles of the Rosé, followed as the evening wore on by a beautiful Malbec, the six of us chatted and shared stories as comfortable with each other as long time friends. It was with regret on all sides that we called it an evening and we drove Tim and Naomi to town again. In the next couple of days, we catch up on some RV chores and have Tim and Naomi over for a traditional Argentinean assado. We drank copious amounts of wine from our now blooming collection, while Tom cooked sausages and 2 different cuts of beef over the wood fire. It was then time for fond goodbyes with our new Australian friends as the next day we are leaving to head north for the Chilean border. All in all, we can honestly say that we have had a fabulous time in Mendoza and just in case there is any doubt left in anyone’s mind, let me clarify. I love wine. It is just about the only alcohol I consume. I like wine by itself and on occasion by myself. I love having a glass of wine to enjoy an interesting talk, to celebrate a great moment or to share with good company. There is no doubt that whenever we drink wine, we are absorbing the smells and tastes of the earth around us, from the soils in which the vine was grown to the tannins and spices and color that the grapes have when grown in a specific microclimate. Wine drunk without food tastes different than wine which is accompanied with food. Food can amplify the enjoyment of the wine and vice versa. Wine reacts with food in the same way that an herb or spice might. A good pairing will bring out the nuances enhancing the flavors and distinctive characteristics of both the food and the wine. However, the best pairing is the combination of good food, great wine and excellent company. Wine in its best context is a mix of people, smiles, music, landscapes, smells and food. Well, in this past week, in the amazing province of Mendoza, we have had it all!

The Bodegas of Mendoza – Part 2

Tim and Naomi arrive at 11 that morning and we plan our day with the first stop being at a bodega we had all had recommended to us – Catena Zapata. Unfortunately it is Good Friday (the Friday before Easter) and it seems the wineries are either closed or short staffed. Catena Zapata is closed to the public, it seems there is a private event taking place and the guard, even after much cajoling and pleading was undeterred, so after talking with the manager on duty, we made an appointment for the next day and moved on. To put us back in the “wine mood”, we stopped at the first bodega that was open and we recognized. Bodega Norton is a medium sized winery and they make a wine that though not excellent is imminently drinkable. Ignacio, who introduced himself by the nickname “Nacho”, told us that he was short staffed and could not offer us a tour but he could pour us some wine and leave us alone to explore the tasting room. After opening a Chardonnay and a Robles Malbec, which I had mentioned was my favorite of their wines and giving a brief explanation of the production process of both, he left us to enjoy the wines and each other’s company. This is just what we needed. One side note, unlike any of the California wineries, which might just chop off your hand if you tried to pour your own glass, that might sound extreme but it is a grave “faux pas” as anyone who visits the wineries is well aware, here in Argentina the bottles are left out in such a way that you can pour as little (or as much) as you like, go back to one that was particularly pleasing to you or even suggest an alternative vintage. It is very laid back and reminds Tom and me of how Napa used to be back in the eighties. Because Ignacio was so generous, we purchased some of that very drinkable Robles Malbec that I enjoy. We next went to Bodega Terrazas de los Andes. In the late 50's, Moet & Chandon sent its chief winemaker, Renaud Poirier, to Argentina to investigate the potential of the region for producing world-class wines. Impressed with the local conditions for winemaking and the presence of unique high elevation vineyards, Moet & Chandon established Terrazas de los Andes as its first subsidiary winery and vineyards outside of France and the bodega is now considered to be a pioneer producer of high elevation premium wines. We elected not to do the tour and so while waiting for the tour to end so we could join in the tasting, our hospitality hostess Valeria, took us to a table overlooking the grounds and ordered us a glass of sparkling wine. Later as we tasted a remarkable selection of wines, Valeria explained their philosophy of wine growing and production. With an emphasis on maximizing fruit expression, varietals have been carefully matched to each vineyard altitude: Cabernet Sauvignon at 980 meters above sea level, Malbec at 1.067, Chardonnay at 1.200 meters and Torrontes at 1.800 meters and as a result they have a truly marvelous selection of high quality wines available. It is late and we drive Tim and Naomi back to their hostel in Mendoza while making plans to meet the next day at our campsite, if nothing else we have a one o’clock appointment at Catena Zapata. Bodega Catena Zapata is without a doubt one of the most visually stunning wineries I have ever visited. From the gorgeous limestone block walled exterior which extends to the interior on the walls and floor, to the amazing temperature controlled rooms on the lower floors which contain an astounded selection of wine from decades of vintages and the interior central staircase which winds its way round each level until at the top you are treated with 360 degree views of the vineyards for miles around, this winery is a “not to be missed”. The tasting itself was a little disappointing in that it was uniquely uninformative which we excused due to the fact that it is Easter Saturday and the winery appeared very short staffed when compared to the number of people visiting. The wines themselves however were very good especially the Chardonnay from the Adrianna Vineyard made from grapes grown at 4757 feet. Compared to the other bodegas we had visited, Vino Cobos is very small. However the wines were superb with a choice of 3 or 4 different wines categories to choose from and complimentary goat cheese and crackers. Our hospitality hostess was very knowledgeable and helpful in discussing not only their wines but also the wines from the region. While the tasting room itself was large and modern in décor, we sat at a table for 6, including us and one other couple from Naples Florida and it gave the feeling of intimacy created by guests and our hostess. It was a pleasant bodega with excellent wines.

The Bodegas of Mendoza – Part 1

Our bodega experience began as we were traveling on Route 40 still some 30 kilometers or so from the city, where rich Andean soil ground from layers of volcanic rock is the source of famous Argentinean wines. Chandon Champagne Cellars had a sign stating they were located just a few kilometers from the highway. It was still early afternoon with plenty of daylight left to find our campground. Situated in an area called Valle de Uco and opened in the late 1950’s, Chandon, Argentina was the first winery that Moet & Chandon opened outside of France. A delightful young lady called Carolina, who spoke excellent English, guided us through the various types of sparkling wine they produce. She was wonderfully welcoming and tried to provide us with information that we were interested in, answering our questions very knowledgeably. With a combination of clay-based and rocky soils and a semi-desert climate with cold nights combine to create the perfect conditions for obtaining grapes with higher acidity, body and flavor. There is no doubt that Chandon believes, and rightfully so that Valle de Uco is the best region to grow the best grapes to make the best sparkling wines from Argentina. We stayed much longer than we originally thought and sampled quite a variety of wines, settling on 4 to take with us, all either rosé or made from the pinot noir grape including a bottle of their signature Baron B wine. Our campsite was a little difficult to find but after making our way down gravel side roads and past many vineyards, we eventually found it nestled between fields of vines. Camping Vina de Vieynes is a great campground in the Mendoza area known as Maipu and was perfect for our forage into wine country. During the next two days we went to three more bodegas based purely on the fact that they each produce a favorite Argentinean wine of ours. They are also some of the oldest and more established bodegas in the region and situated in an area of Mendoza known as Coquimbito, one of Argentina’s oldest viticulture zones. The first visit was to Bodega Finca Flichman which was first started in 1873 by the Flichmans who inaugurated the name “Finca Flichman” in 1910. This winery was on our list because it makes one of Tom’s favorite wines “Caballero de la Cepa”. It is a beautiful building offering wine tours and tasting. The grounds are amazing and actually won an award in Mendoza, where large bodegas with fantastic landscaping are the norm, for the most architecturally pleasing landscape and deservedly so. The “Caballero” that we like so much was created in 1947 and is considered the first Argentinean “fine” wine. In addition to a case of the Caballero, half in Cabernet Sauvignon and half in Malbec, we also buy some of their lower end Misterio Chardonnay and Malbec. Quite delicious and a good sipping wine. Our next stop is at Bodega Trapiche which make my most favorite wine in all of Argentina “Fond du Cave”. Tiburcio Benegas founded in this winery in 1883 and he is actually credited along with a Frenchman, Don Michel Pouget for introducing the Malbec grape to Argentina for which the wine of this country is renowned. Pouget was originally hired by then President Sarmiento to establish a vine nursery in Mendoza called La Quinta Nacional. It was on the tour of the winery and their wine-making process that we meet Tim and Naomi, a young couple from Melbourne who are making their way, the long way round, from Australia to Canada where they plan on working for a few years. Accustomed to working in high end restaurants, they are very knowledgeable about wine, its aroma, its complexity, its acids, tannins and nuances. Since they have no vehicle, today they rented bicycles and are doing a biking tour, we suggest meeting up with them and we can all drive together in the motorhome to different vineyards. They happily agree and we pick a time for them to be at our campsite the next day. Besides Fond du Cave, Trapiche make some other delicious although by Argentinean prices, expensive wines and in addition to Fond du Cave, we also purchase some of their Gran Medalla Malbec. Fortunately each bottle came with a free bottle of sparkling wine so we selected rosé, which for the past few years I have come to enjoy over the brut and extra brut champagnes. Our final stop for the day was at Bodega La Rural which makes a favorite of Mariano and Marcela, Rutini’s Trumpeter. Remember if you like Rutini wines, they are produced by Bodega La Rural. In addition to a modern wine-making facility, this 100-year-old colonial style bodega houses a museum of antique tools and equipment that were used to make wine in Argentina during the nineteenth century. As a result, the winery’s tour is like taking a trip back in time where you can appreciate the labor and sacrifice that went into wine production a century ago. As we tasted their wines, we browsed through the collection of antiques on display, it was quite unique. And so completely sated and thoroughly happy with our bodega selections and the Coquimbito region, we plan our next experiences in the Lujan de Cuyo area with Tim and Naomi.

San Rafael, Mendoza Province.

After entering the province of Mendoza, route 40 continued to be part paved and part gravel until Malargue. From there it was smooth sailing. Driving from Malargue is really the beginning of the wine growing region of Mendoza and is an astonishing contrast to the barren pampa steppe we were used to seeing. Here the volcanic rich soil is abundant with acres of grape vines and meticulously planted orchards of olive trees. It is March and the vines are laden with enormous bunches of large juice-filled grapes. Autumn in the southern hemisphere and the crops are at their peak. In some fields the harvesting is already starting to happen. Also, the magnificent Cuesta de los Terneros, a jagged snow capped section of the Andes on our left, are home to both the Domuyo and Overo volcanoes. These heavily glaciated mountains would definitely provide some wow factor, if the vines do not. We also follow the rapids-strewn Atuel River which, along with the Diamante River in San Rafael provides during the spring months, Class 2 through 5 white water thrills. After crossing two, very narrow bridges we come to the town of San Rafael. Irrigated by the Atuel and Diamante Rivers, vineyards and orchards still survive within the city limits, which is part of a prosperous wine-and-fruit-producing area. As we drive down long, sycamore tree-lined avenues we are enclosed on both sides by vineyards. Grape vines as far as the eye can see. On the main street of Hipolito Yrigoyen, the trees on each side are so mature that they tower over the entire avenue, branches meeting in the center of the road, completely shading the afternoon sun. That first evening in a short 5 mile drive we counted six large vineyards and several smaller family owned ones. Tomorrow will be wine tasting. We found our campsite for the night, located on the banks of the Diamante River and checked our maps. Since we really want to spend most of our available time in the city of Mendoza which is the largest producing wine area of Argentina, we will visit only two vineyards in San Rafael. The first winery, referred to in Argentina as “bodegas” we chose was the small family owned Bournet Winery. Not realizing we needed an appointment, we simply drove up to their bodega which was actually their production facility with a small tasting room attached. The manager called the owner who happens to live next door and she and her husband came to meet us. After they found out we were Americans, they called their daughter-in-law who spoke perfect English and talked to us about their small vineyard and proudly showed us their awards in a variety of categories. As we walked around their facility, we sipped on an excellent Malbec and bought a bottle of that plus a bottle of sparkling wine before leaving. It was a wonderful experience to be with a family that was so dedicated and proud to be vintners. Our next stop was at the other end of the scale. Bodega Bianchi is huge and about as mass market as any of the monster wineries in the States but still maintains a family ran atmosphere. Located in the flat lands of the San Rafael Valley, Bodega Valentin Bianchi is one of the oldest wineries in South America. Started in 1928 by Don Valentin Bianchi, the grandchildren continue to run and manage the day to day operations of the bodega itself. Their vineyards are about 2,600 feet above sea level and the Andes which tower above the vines act as a barrier from the damp winds coming from the Pacific Ocean. With moderately warm summers, this unique landscape creates an ideal microclimate for growing grapes and the wines they have produced have won international recognition. The stone and marble bodega and tasting room is enormous with beautifully maintained gardens. Besides being offered a considerable list of wines to taste, they also had a dining area where we could sit and order an appetizer plate and glasses of wine at very reasonable prices. We are hungry and quickly decide on a cold platter consisting of a variety of cheeses, deli salami, pate and some wonderful smoked pheasant. All of that and two glasses of their Reserva Malbec were only $15.00. While we ate and tasted, we picked up 6 bottles to purchase ranging from a simple Chardonnay to a bottle of Malbec Reserve. It is getting late and we decide to stay in San Rafael for one more night before leaving for the town of Mendoza. Later that evening, after dinner and sharing a bottle of Valentin Bianchi’s wine, both of us concluded that this was a fantastic start to our wine exploration of Mendoza province.

Buenos Aires to Viedma (the coast route)

After finally receiving the fridge and getting it installed, we were ready to leave the capital. It took us one week and some fees to get it from customs and storage. I don’t want to bore everyone with the morbid, lurid step by step procedure but if anyone reading wants more info for shipping things to Buenos Aires, drop me an email and I will share the details. Since we have time before meeting Haley in Viedma on February 1st, we decided to take the coastal route (RP11) through La Plata to Mar Del Plata and then to Bahia Blanca and Viedma, a total of close to 1,000 miles (1,660 km). We have plenty of time and our plan is to drive a little each day and stay at a different spot every night. The first thing was a routine traffic stop just after crossing the bridge out of Capital Federal to La Plata. Routine! There were three officials. As one checked our auto permit, another ran a check on our passports. The third handed Tom (who was driving) a packet to open. It was a tip to the breathalyzer control unit he was holding. He showed Tom where to put it and to blow into it. Since it is only 2pm or so, naturally we had had no alcoholic drinks. Our policy is to not have a beer until we are parked for the night. Additionally we also know that Argentina has only a .04 tolerance (one beer max will put you over the limit) and there is mandatory jail and stiff fines attached. Tom blew as directed and the official showed him the results. A Zero! We couldn’t tell if they were disappointed or not. After handing us back all our documentation we were on our way. So, all other travelers beware, Argentina tests! Our first night we stayed in Punta Atalaya at a municipal balneario. Although there were lots of people, it was quiet at night. We got on the road early and drove around Bahia Samborombon. There are many small beach communities and we stopped at a tourist office for campsites. Unfortunately, this is tourist season. During January and February school is out and most families take their vacations during this period. As a result the first couple of campsites we went to in San Clemente and Santa Teresita had a 2 – 4 night minimum stay. We finally found a campground in Mar Del Tuyu that would let us stay for one night. It was filled with families but again we got lucky and through the night it was quiet. The next day, we passed through Mar del Plata, without stopping and went further south to Miramar. Mar del Plata was crazy, wall-to-wall people. Miramar was not much better. On our travels we have seen crowded beaches but this was insane. All the beaches we have seen and passed through since leaving Buenos Aires are so crowded; we began to regret taking this route. The Rio del Plata and then the Atlantic Ocean are beautiful but there is no way to enjoy it. There is, literally too many people. Not one square inch of sand is visible and in the water, people are shoulder to shoulder. In Miramar, the campground was inland so we decided instead to park on a cliff overlooking the north end of the town and beach. After dusk and in the morning were the best. No people. We were able to make our way down steps in the cliff to a beach devoid of humanity save for the occasional surf fisherman and a few others fishing from a jetty. Winston finally got in a good run and play. From there we drove inland to Tres Arroyos and found a terrific posada by early afternoon. It had a beautiful sparkling pool and we quickly cooled off. After sunset, we had the place to ourselves. We had planned on staying longer on the beaches but because of the crowds had kept moving. We are now a day ahead of schedule. Tempted though we were to spend an extra day here, we decided to push on. Better to arrive in Viedma a day early than late. Our last night on the road was in Bahia Blanca at another municipal balneario. These municipal campsites are great. They are inexpensive and usually have electricity and water plus a pool or beach access. We have heard that some are noisy at night but our luck held and again we had a quiet nights sleep. From there it was onto Viedma and Patagonia. The generic name “Patagonia” actually refers to all land south of the Rio Negro, which we crossed at Pedro Luro. Prior to that we passed through two food checkpoints. The first just outside of Bahia Blanca and the second just south of Pedro Luro. Both points look for the same products. Namely any kind of fresh or frozen meats (beef, chicken, pork or lamb) and most fruits. I saw very few fruits that were not listed. Our only transgression was two frozen pork chops which were confiscated. Apparently Patagonia has an international crediting of being free of fruit fly and hoof and mouth disease. As a result no meat or fruit is allowed to cross into the area. They were not interested in vegetables or dairy products. As we drove we passed acres upon acres of gorgeous, full bloom sunflowers. Fields as far as the eye could see were just a mass of gold. They were incredibly beautiful. At one glorious point, Tom stopped the vehicle and climbed onto the roof to take some photos. We arrived in Viedma with plenty of time to find Haley’s hotel and leave her a note. She is flying from the States to Buenos Aires, then another plane to Bahia Blanca and from there the 6 hour van drive to Viedma. Hope she’s not too exhausted to swim!

Tango (The Dance of Passion) and a Tango Show (Tango Porteno)

What the exuberant samba is to Brazil so the tango is synonymous to Argentina and specifically Buenos Aires. Loneliness, despair and jealousy are all themes of tango song and the accompanying dance is all about Latin machismo, passionate and flamboyant. Tango is in the air in Buenos Aires and its melancholy sounds are everywhere. Whether it was from a construction worker who sang while he worked as I walked Winston every morning in Puerto Madero to a taxi driver who serenaded us as he drove us to Palermo Soho and La Cabrera, the tango melodies linger. The beginnings of the Buenos Aires love of tango comes from the immigrants who came in droves at the end of the 1800’s. Consisting of descendants from African slaves, boatloads of Italians and Spanish, and mostly male, they mixed their national music to create the tango sound and the dance, which came before lyrics were introduced to the music, was usually performed by two males. However it did not gain popularity with upper class Argentineans until it became accepted in Europe especially France. In 1917, Carlos Gardel became the first great tango singer when he recorded Mi Noche Triste. Although the arguments continue as to whether he was born in Uruguay or France (I’ll leave that to others), the Portenos embraced him and so tango became the rage. Due partly to an economic recession and a successive string of military dictatorships prohibiting public meetings, tango went into a decline in the 1950’s which continued through to the 1980’s when it’s slow revival started in Paris with the show “Tango Argentina”. Now it is in resurgence and the young people of Buenos Aires have come to accept it as a definite evolutionary part of their culture. Visit San Telmo or La Boca and you can hear and see tango in its many forms being performed on the street corners and in small restaurants. With this resurrection, there are now a plethora of tango shows being performed on stages and a visit to one for me was essential. Again we asked around and one kept popping up – Senor Tango. I checked them out online and it is touted as a “Las Vegas” style show, just seemed to touristy for my needs. I want tango, pure and simple. When we had visited the Teatro (Opera House) we had seen one called Tango Porteno. I checked online again and about one other La Ventana. After much agonizing, back and forth, and Tom finally saying “Please just choose one” I settled on Tango Porteno. Tickets were available online but with tickets starting at $45.00 for just the show or $78.00 for show and drinks (these seats are way back) up to $178.00 for VIP front row, we couldn’t decide on which level of tickets to purchase, so decided to wing it. There were also dinner options but these were really expensive and the food just didn’t seem that interesting to us considering the huge price difference. We arrived at around 9:45pm for the 10:30pm show, yes things start late in Argentina. We told the doorman that we had no tickets and he pointed to a lady, dressed in a 1940’s style costume. She showed us what was available, all price ranges and we looked and discussed. We went back and forth between %78.00 tickets, quite far from the stage to $108.00 which was closer. There were some good seats in the $178.00 range but we really didn’t want to spend that much. Finally she made our decision easy. If we paid for the $108 section, she would upgrade us to the VIP $178.00 seats and pointed to a table, front row and center. Deal and decided. We forked over $216.00 but would it be worth it? The theatre itself is a completed renovated Metro Goldwyn Mayer movie theatre and is beautiful. It has been restored in every detail in pure art deco from the 40’s. We were shown to our table and our waiter seated us and asked what we drank. Drinks are included in the ticket price but Tom gave him 100 pesos ($25.00) and said “I drink beer, my wife, red wine. Within 5 minutes an ice bucket with 6 beers and not one but two bottles of red wine in a separate bucket (no ice). As a side note, all the negative comments about this show online stemmed from complaints that they were seated at the back even though there were better seats available and bad service from either only getting poured one drink and then ignored and/or not getting an appetizer, which is also included. To those people, I offer my ideas. If all you pay for is a cheap seat, then that is what you get. Either ask for an upgrade (it never hurts to ask) or offer the maître a little extra for a table closer to the stage and tip your waiter first! You won’t see him again after tonight and you want him to remember you, now. The drinks and appetizers may be included but good service is extra. And the show was spectacular. The meticulous scenery and gorgeous costumes create the ultimate effect of transporting you back in time to the reign of tango in the 40’s. The 12 piece orchestra was a joy to listen to and the dancers were just phenomenal. Two in particular one dance in which the female danced wearing a blindfold with only her partner to guide her through the truly intricate footwork and then another female dancer who danced a solo with a mannequin that she “brought to life”. The entire show was original and imaginative. There may be others in Buenos Aires that is as good but we were very happy with our choice. The taxi driver asked if we enjoyed the show and we both answered with an exuberant “absolutely” Tango may linger in the air in Buenos Aires but it will also stay with me as we travel south.

About Beef, Wine and Parrillas (Steakhouses).

Argentina is world renowned for its high quality of beef and although much is exported, the best is kept at home. This is a carnivore’s paradise. Around 50 varietals of grape are grown in Mendoza and the drier areas of the north but the Malbec and Cabernets with a few blends are the best. The wines are extremely inexpensive and very good. This is a wine-drinkers paradise. Arguably, put together, a good cut of beef and a bottle of red wine is a gastronomic, culinary delight and the Argentineans have taken it to another level of ritual and tradition. Steak preparation is taken very seriously and it seems as though there is a parrilla on every street corner. So, how to find the best steakhouses in Buenos Aires, not just a restaurant that serves steaks but a true, honest to God temple to beef? We checked the internet, asked cab drivers and talked to locals. The same names pop up: La Cabrera, La Brigada, Cabana Las Lilas and for the locals, Siga la Vaca, La Caballeriza and La Dorita. By American standards Argentineans eat late, 10 or 11pm is not unusual, so many restaurants do not open until 9 or so.
For our first venture into serious steak consumption, we took a taxi to San Telmo and La Brigada. After dropping us off at the appropriate intersection, we then asked a policeman who pointed to a building just a few steps down a cobbled street. On the way we passed an upscale looking wine retailer and decided to check it out before dinner. VinoTango is owned and ran by Delia who speaks very good English and is extremely helpful. The wines are priced from about $5.00 a bottle on up. Like I said there are some very good, inexpensive wines in Argentina. We purchased 2 bottles in the $15.00 range and a bottle of port made from Malbec grapes. From there it was onto La Brigada. The first thing I noticed was that we were the only non Spanish speaking customers and the waiters didn’t speak English either. There appeared to be the easy camaraderie of regulars who probably eat here often. There was the tantalizing aroma and the sound of sizzling beef as it hit the grill. The tables had white tablecloths with runners of black leather, the menus were bound in cow hide and the walls had posters illustrating the various cuts. We were seated by our waiter, Sebastian, who commented that he spoke only a little English. That’s ok, there is only beef on the menu and we know enough Spanish to request our steaks “jugoso”, rare. The wine list was daunting. Sebastian made a few suggestions and left us to decide. There is a couple at the table next to us. They have a bottle of wine on the table. I tried to see what is was but the label was the wrong way. They caught me looking and offered the bottle for me to see. Then they offered me their glass to taste from. This would never happen in the States without requesting a clean glass but “when in Rome” so of course I accepted. It was a Malbec Reserve listed at $35.00 and it was very good. We ordered it and introduced ourselves to our neighbors. They spoke some English and were regulars at La Brigada. Tom ordered the T-Bone and me, a rib-eye. Steaks are usually served by themselves without any sauces or garnishments other than a salad although if you request it, chimichurra sauce is provided. We ordered the Waldorf salad to go with ours. The steaks arrived, covering the whole plate. One entrée would easily serve two people and we did take a considerable amount of meat home with us, including the bone for Winston. The steaks were cooked to perfection and excellent. The entire meal, salad, steaks, dessert (flan), wine and coffee came to about $120.00. Not cheap but certainly not expensive by US steakhouse prices.
Following our mammoth Sunday of sightseeing with Pablo and Cesar, we next tried Siga La Vaca (Follow the Cow) in Pilar. This is a “tenedor libre” or all-you-can-eat parrilla with restaurants in Capital Federal at Puerto Madero and 4 others in the surrounding suburbs including the one we went to. None of us had eaten since breakfast, so we decided to show up unfashionably early which means before 10pm. The L-shaped building is reminiscent of a ranch home and inside is decorated with ceiling lights and wall sconces covered in cowhide and wait staff wearing aprons with a cow hide pattern. The method is simple. You can get up whenever you want and get as much food as your body can physically handle. This includes the salad bar and parrilla, complete with various cuts of meat from cows, chickens, pigs, and miscellaneous animal parts. At the end, if you are still breathing and able, you get one dessert from a fairly extensive dessert menu. In addition to the food each person gets unlimited bottled water (with or without gas) and either an entire bottle of wine or pitcher of beer or soda, all for the low price of 97 pesos (about $22, 00) per person. There were two long buffet tables, loaded with a variety of salad items, cold cuts and cheeses. Then there was the huge parrilla with a chef tending to it and serving customers. This might seem confusing and daunting to some tourists, but if you know a couple of beef phrases, tira (short ribs), bife de chorizo (sirloin) or filet or, simply point at what you want, you’ll do okay. The chef then slices off pieces for you. The waitress supplied us with bottles of water both clear and sparkling, a bottle of wine, two pitchers of beer and one pitcher of soda and bowls full of French fries to accompany our meat. We later ordered desserts of flan with crème de dulce and crema, chocolate lava cake with vanilla ice cream topped with raspberry sauce, lemon sorbet and a bowl of mixed fruit. The four of us ate and drank for under $100.00 including a tip. When we got home all we could do was collapse on the bed because we had not only “followed the cow” but caught and ate it!
By contrast our next venture into the world of parrillas was Cabanas Las Lilas in Puerto Madero. It is widely written about on the internet and screams “tourist”. We had been warned that it was the most expensive parrilla in town but was it worth it? The huge 400 seat restaurant is located in a converted warehouse along the canal with tables both inside and out. The menu which consists of what else, but beef that is raised on their own private estancia (ranch). It is also one of the few restaurants that stay open all day and so accommodates the early (by Argentinean standards) dinner habits of North American tourists. We arrived on a Tuesday night at around 9pm with no reservations and had to wait about 30 minutes for a table, which we spent having a gin & tonic at the bar and chatting with Guthrie, a gentleman from England who is headed to Tierra del Fuego for a fishing trip. There are no cow hides in sight. The waiters are dressed in black pants and white shirts, suits for the head waiters and the guests are mostly foreign. When we were seated, it was outside at one corner, sheltered by short shrubs and with pretty views of the canal. The night was clear and warm so it was perfect. The staff works a given area on a team basis with one head waiter who takes the order and then others that serve, refill and replenish your bread and drinks. Tom ordered the T-Bone and me, the asado de tira which is a traditional Argentine cut. Since everything is a al carte we also ordered a baked potato and mushrooms to share. After studying the wine book, which is split into sections of exceptional (more than $100), very good ($50.00 range) and good ($25 range) we eventually asked the waiter to select for us a bottle of very good or mid range wine. He pointed to a Cabernet Reserve that once opened was delicious. Those were the highlights. To put it mildly, our steaks were disappointing. Tom’s T-bone was not of the same juicy quality as at La Brigada, or size for that matter and my tira was dry and tough. I eventually gave up on my steak, ate the potato and mushrooms and had the rest packaged to take home for Winston. We had no dessert or coffee and our bill including 4 gin & tonics, dinner and wine was close to $200.00. So, for ambience and service we give it a 5 and for food a 2. Hmm. Maybe we were there on an “off night”, maybe we chose the wrong cut of steak but we would not return which is a shame because we really did love the location, service and atmosphere.
By contrast, we loved La Cabrera. A lot is written about the restaurant and some is true but it is a great parrilla. Yes, the wait is long if you don’t have reservations, we did not. But the hostess was cheerful and pointed us to a seat next door where we could sit and have a drink whilst we waited. We chatted with a student from Seattle who was studying in Buenos Aires and her Paraguayan friend who both said this was the best restaurant for the money. There are plenty of tourists but also some locals. Our outside table was fine for us. We were seated next to two Australians and there is definitely no room for private conversation but we were not here for romance. We were here for beef. Our waiter Gustavo was polite, friendly and well informed. He encouraged us not to order too much and suggested a wine from the list. It was a $32.00 bottle of Malbec that went well with our Ojo de Bife. He also let us know that if we really want rare we should ask for it “bien juguso” (well juicy). This is the only parrilla that offered at no extra charge, side dishes and lots of them consisting of small portions of potatoes, squash, salad and about 10 other bowls of various vegetables. The beef was sensational and cooked to perfection with plenty left over for take home. At the end of the meal a lollipop tree was put on the table. Try as many as you like. Our bill including tip was under $100.00 making it the best value from the list of top parrillas in Buenos Aires. To avoid the long wait, make reservations. This restaurant stays packed from 8 until after midnight but at no point did we feel rushed. It is worth the visit but don’t forget those reservations.
At the complete other end of the economic scale are the Carritos (food stand parrillas). If you come to Buenos Aires and don’t eat at one you are missing out. Not only are they cheap but incredibly delicious. There are many along the Costnera Sur in Puerto Madero. Just order a traditional choripan (sausage sandwich) or bife de chorizo (sirloin steak) and eat out at plastic tables with chairs overlooking the river.
To conclude. We think Argentine beef is the best in the world, with Uruguay second and Australia third. Like seeing a tango show, every visit to Buenos Aires should include eating at least once at a parrilla. If we had to choose one it would be La Cabrera and next time we will make reservations to avoid the wait. A close second is La Brigada as we liked the non-tourist feel about the place as well as the food. If you don’t mind buffets or are on a budget and are not timid about asking for help in selecting your meat, try Siga la Vaca. Unless it is a special occasion (anniversary) and you’re looking for ambience, give Cabana Las Lilas a miss. It was expensive and not worth our time or money. But there are hundreds of others in town so ask around and venture into your own realm of serious steak consumption.

Congress Palace and Casa Rosada – Sunday in Buenos Aires.

The Palacio de Congresso (Congress Palace) is an imposing Greek-Roman style building. It is also a good example of the concept for Buenos Aires for taking architectural ideas from the world’s most famous buildings and incorporating them into the city. Designed by Italian architect, Vitorrio Meano (who also designed Teatro Colon) and constructed from granite covered in gleaming white marble, the palace resembles the U.S. Capitol Building. The views from our vantage point in the Plaza de Congresso (Congress Plaza) with the Greek Doric style columns in front and the copper covered dome gleaming in the afternoon sun made for some great photographs. The plaza which features the Monumento a los Dos Congressos (Monument of the Two Congresses) is also the place where many protests have taken place. There seemed to be a semi permanent collection of booths and a group of people regaling the state of the Malvinas (Falkland Islands) and the war. I was unsure what they actually wanted but it was interesting to watch their relatively quiet protest as police and guards patrolled. A 10 block walk down Avenida de Mayo, at the other end and facing the Congress Palace is Casa Rosada (the Pink House). As we strolled along the boulevard we passed some amazing granite and limestone buildings with adorned balconies constructed either from carved stone balustrades or ornate wrought iron and tiled or copper cupolas, towers and domes. As we approached Plaza de Mayo and La Casa Rosada, the sun was starting to set, bathing it in extraordinary shades of coral and pink. Possibly the most photographed building in the city, Casa Rosada or its official name Casa de Gobierno (Government House) has been the seat of the executive branch of the government of Argentina since the late 19th century. The picturesque Italian Renaissance style “house” is stunning and as I stood on front of it, I could easily picture Eva Peron standing at the balcony facing the plaza rallying the “descamisados, the low income workers or Pope John Paul II when he visited in 1998, waving to the crowds. Today though, no-one is on the balcony and the crowds made up of tourists and Argentineans alike are soaking up the early evening sun and the sights and sounds of a bustling city. The biggest surprise for us came at 6:50pm when a group of ceremonial palace guards in full uniform marched out of the house and around the plaza. As the clock tower rang at 7pm, one played the bugle as the others gathered around the flagpole for the lowering of the Argentinean flag. The bugle with its hauntingly simple tone and melody filled the square and it was beautiful to watch as the Argentineans respectfully stood with hands over their hearts paying homage as the flag was lowered and taken away. Instead of walking the 10 blocks back to the car, Pablo and Cesar suggested taking the subway and Tom and I jumped at the opportunity. As we descended into the well-lit, tiled tunnel that make up the underground train system it reminds me of subways I have been in all over the world. The sights, smells and sounds are all so similar. There was a vintage train on the platform and as we waited for our train, we took photos of it and the guard. The subway ride back to the car was quick and uneventful but we were grateful for the chance to experience another aspect of the city. Everyone was tired. It has been a long day and the dogs have been alone at home. We decide that instead of eating dinner in the city, we will go back to Pilar, check on the dags and then go to Siga La Vaca (Follow the Cow) parrilla for dinner. What a day! EL Ateneo, Plaza San Martin, San Telmo, La Boca, Congress Palace and Casa Rosada, phew!

San Telmo & La Boca – Two Barrios in Buenos Aires

Of the 48 barrios (neighborhoods) in Buenos Aires, San Telmo is the oldest and La Boca along with Barracus and Puerto Madero are next. Most of the residents are of mixed European descent, mainly Italian, Spanish, French and Basque. Known for its 19th century architecture and cobblestone streets, San Telmo is teeming with cafes, tango parlors, art and antique shops. If you are ever in Buenos Aires, put this on your schedule: “San Telmo on Sunday”. Centered in Plaza Dorrego, the arts and crafts fair stretches down numerous side streets. The little barrio is teeming with artisans, musicians, tango dancers and performers and the atmosphere is filled with energy. Arts and crafts, antiques and all things tango are for sale in the pedestrian only streets. Some expensive, some not and you can always bargain. I purchased a small leather-bound notebook with a tango scene on the cover for only $5.00! The artist even put my name on the back. Taking time we would stop often and listen to the performers, who range from one person singing the melancholy sounds of tango to full scale tango orchestras. I was entranced by a tango show being performed by two dancers in a small amphitheatre style setting. I could have watched longer but the guys wanted to keep moving. The day was heating up when we stopped at one of the many restaurants that line the streets, many of which host performances of tango and folklore song and dance. Here you can see dancers performing the tango, milonga (a more energetic version of tango) and folk dancing without spending the money to visit a show. As we sat drinking our chopp (draft beer) we watched tango and folk dancers, while at the restaurant across from us there was another more elderly performer singing tango. In fact at one point the owner came across and tried to tell the owner of the restaurant where we were that his music was too loud. I also had to ask the owner to sit down because he was standing in front, blocking the view and as a result most of the photos we took, he was in them! If in the mood, you can try your hand (and feet) and learn to tango from many of the dancers. With so much to see and do, it is easy to forget to look up at the old, restored buildings with their flower filled ornate balconies and cupola topped roofs. I could have stayed here all day but we want to see La Boca too. La Boca is the most colorful area of Buenos Aires and the buildings and homes in the barrio are painted vibrant shades of blue, red, yellow and green. Italian immigrants were the first settlers in this neighborhood and it was the city’s first port. Although many of the world’s football (soccer) fans know La Boca as being the home of La Bombonera and the Boca Juniors, we are going to the main pedestrian street, La Caminito, named after a famous tango song. Like San Telmo, the streets were lined with artists selling their designs and local dancers performing and teaching tango. Unlike San Telmo , due to the brilliant splashes of color you definitely won’t forget to look up and check out the buildings with their adornments of statues and mannequins. From this quaint, quirky, colorful neighborhood, with echoes of tango in my head, we headed back to the city center for more sightseeing.

Tourists in Buenos Aires.

Pablo and Cesar have given some thought to our day which started at El Ateneo, one of the most well known bookstores in the city. Move over Barnes and Noble, this takes bookstores to another level of style and elegance and in 2008 came in second on the list of the World’s Best Bookstores. Designed by architects Pero and Torres Armengol, it first opened as a theatre named Teatro Gran Splendid in 1919. Many of the most famous tango stars like Carlos Gardel, Francesco Canaro and Ignacio Corsino performed here. Bought in 2000 by the group Tematika, who own more than 40 other stores, it was renovated and the EL Ateneo Grand Splendid became their flagship store. When you walk through you can still feel the grandeur of the original theatre. Although all the seats have been removed in lieu of bookshelves, the ornate carvings, theatre lighting and the stage with its crimson curtains are the same. The orchestra pit now houses a café where you can buy a myriad of alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages as you wander the three tiers (floors) of books. The dome ceiling which has the original beautiful fresco painted by Italian artist Nazareni Orlando and the architectural detail are all original. Elevators take you to the second and third tiers, where shelves are filled with books but the still intact red velvet covered theatre boxes are available to read, have a drink and people watch. Comfortable sofas and chairs are also scattered throughout the store. We could have spent hours here but we need to move on. Next stop was San Martin Plaza, which is Cesar’s most favorite of the city’s parks. Named after General Jose de San Martin, the plaza is a sprawling, tree-filled park. Although the good general died in exile, in 1862 French sculptor Louis-Joseph Daumas was commissioned to create the equestrian statue of San Martin as a hero from the Wars of Independence and in 1878 the plaza was named in his honor. Now numerous mature trees shade the park and benches. The beautiful flowering jacaranda, magnolia and the yellow flowered tipa (rosewood) trees in addition to two hundred year old fichus and trees invite visitors passing by to sit and contemplate the statues and nearby monuments and buildings. Located in the park is the Monumento a los Caídos en Malvinas (Monument for the fallen in the Falklands war). Built in 1990 to honor those who fought for Argentina, this was the second memorial that we have visited (the first was in Rosario) that commemorates the 1982 Falklands War with England. Although much has been written about this war, precipitated by Argentina and General Galtieri who mistakenly thought the British would not respond, the war tragically took 907 lives, 258 British and 649 Argentine. Visible from the park and memorial is the renamed Torre Monumental, although most still call it Torre de los Ingleses (British Clock Tower). This Renaissance clock is set on a platform 35 meters (115 feet) high. On top the tower is an octagonal dome that is covered with layered copper. A weather vane that represents an Elizabethan three-mast ship crowns the peak. Surrounding the park are buildings of gorgeous examples of neo-gothic architecture that what were once mansions and now various government offices. After lots of photographs, it was off to our next spot, the older barrios of Buenos Aires.

A week in Pilar

Waiting for the fridge which is due to arrive Saturday the 14th, means that we can catch up on some RV maintenance and other chores. Since Pablo and Cesar live on a street surrounded by fields, there is very little traffic and there is a police sub-station next door to them. There was plenty of room to park the motor home and it was safe. Our weeks tasks were fixing the window frame on the door of the motor home, having the air conditioner in the truck checked, for some mysterious reason (and Tom has looked at it) it no longer blows air through the front vents, only top and bottom, so we are hot but our feet are freezing! And Winston needs his yearly check up and vaccinations. Pablo had looked for a mechanic to service the RV, so that is scheduled for Thursday. We are going to use the same vet as they do for their dogs and Monday afternoon we were at Puppies & Kittens to see Dr. Catalina Langbehn. Dr. Catalina speaks English and we were able to tell her we needed a health certificate for travelling, plus vaccinations and his yearly blood work. But first, to the scale. No!! Both Tom and I know he has gained weight but to our dismay he checks in at 23 kg. (50lbs). For his size he should be around 40lb. After he gets his shots, we buy some light, low calorie food. We returned Thursday as they need a little more blood and he weighed in at 22.8kg. I know he is thinner although no-one else sees it, maybe I’m delusional! Also we kept our appointment for the air conditioner and they discovered that somehow a hose had been damaged and that explained the lack of air. Now when we drive the cab is cool. Due to some errors in the cutting process, Tom spent all week going back and forth to the wood place to get the correct size for the frame. But by Saturday it was installed and painted black to match the other windows. On Friday we received notice from the shipping agent in Buenos Aires, telling us we can deposit their fees ($359.00) at the HSBC bank, so once the fridge has arrived and uncrated we will have the payment on file. The rest of the week, we spent lazing around the pool. Tom cooked several nights in the week and we went out for pizza one evening. We also went to a puppy adoption center on Wednesday night and another of the puppies found a home, now only three to go. Also, Pablo and Cesar have found a home for the mother, so that is great news. On Saturday, a friend came to visit. Sol works with Pablo as a flight attendant and spoke a little English. We also planned a Sunday trip to Capital Federal (Buenos Aires city) so they put together an itinerary of places to try to see. What fun.

Pilar and Tigre

Saturday we left the city of Buenos Aires (Capital Federal) for the suburb of Pilar, about 25 miles from the city center. We had met Pablo and Cesar on Ihla de Santa Catarina in Brazil and have stayed in contact via email since then. Naturally, we got lost a couple of times finding their home and eventually asked someone who told us to follow them. Their house is away from the town center in an area surrounded by fields and with houses nestled behind shrub lined fences. As we went in and gladly accepted the offer of cold beer, the pool glistening in the sun beckoned us. Winston, of course made himself instantly at home, exploring the garden and playing in the thick, luxurious grass. Pablo and Cesar help with the animal adoption society so besides their own two Samoyeds and three mixed breed dogs, they also have a mom with her 4 puppies, five have already found homes. Winston has plenty of new friends. We spent the afternoon around the pool and later Pablo cooked a delicious dinner of chicken milanesa, potatoes and salad. We chatted until late in the night catching up with each others activities. On Sunday, Pablo, Cesar and their friend Estella planned a great trip to Tigre and the Delta. Situated about 20 miles from Capital Federal, the town is on the Rio Parana. The 14,000 square kilometer delta has hundreds of small islands, inlets, streams and backwaters forming a sub-tropical paradise. Founded in 1820, Tigre actually sits on an island created by several rivers, the Rios Parana, Lujan and Sarmiento. Its name is derived from the jaguars that for many years were hunted but are now virtually extinct. Now, besides the Naval Museum, the area is home to numerous riverside pubs and restaurants, antique and souvenir shops, a casino and Parque de la Costa, a huge amusement park. However, many people including us visit the region for its natural beauty and environment. All trips to the delta start in Tigre. For the people who live in the delta and some tourists, the most popular mode of transportation are the vintage, mahogany commuter launches called “Interislena”, which travel through the web of inter-connecting rivers and streams. If you want to simply tour the delta there are many private companies offering tours in catamaran or small motorboats. However, to really get the feel and experience of the delta lifestyle take the commuter boats. Floating along, it is like visiting time past mixing with present. There are traditional English style rowing clubs, elegant mansions mingle with more humble homes, small posadas compete with upscale hotel/spas and whilst you can eat at the numerous restaurants there are also simple picnic sites and small beaches for swimming or sunbathing. One of the more interesting of the homes is actually a museum. Declared a National Monument in 1966, Sarmiento House was home to the 7th president of Argentina, Domingo Faustino Sarmiento. President from 1868 to 1874, Sarmiento was an intelligent, enlightened man who modernizing the railways and establishing a postal system. His greatest achievement however was establishing a comprehensive education program that included the education of women and children. He is thought of by many, as being Argentines’ first “teacher”. Our stop was on the Sarmiento River at a small parilla for lunch. After disembarking at what was basically a small pier on stilts with steps, we encountered the footpath that led to the restaurant. But first, we followed the trail inland, crossed a wooden bridge and entered the backwaters where we could see, hear and smell the delta. Private homes were built along the trails and footpaths, some colorful, some ornate, some on stilts, most with jetties but all very unique. We recognized hydrangeas and orchid plants and hibiscus trees laden with scarlet blossoms and observed the many species of birds that made the area their home. It truly was a feast for the eyes. Back at the restaurant, we sat outside so we could watch the river activities and the many launches stopping at piers to allow people on and off. We saw the grocery shop sail by waiting for the delta residents to call out. And, the food was excellent. To get back to Tigre, we simply waited at our “boat stop” for a launch to come by and waved it over. Maneuvering up to the jetty, a rope was slung over the rungs on the stairs and we jumped in. Then it was the hour or so trip back to the town while watching the river float by, lots of people rowing, on jet skis, or in small pleasure boats, swimming or lazing in deck chairs by the riverbanks. All in the serene laid back lifestyle of life on the water. It seemed a million miles from the crowds and traffic of the capital. Before heading back home to a multitude of waiting, exuberant dogs and puppies, we stopped at Estella’s home for a beer and appetizers. As we sat in her garden surrounded by trees and shrubs, we talked about our day. It seemed perfect in every way and once again Tom and I thanked God for the people we have met in our travels and the friends we make along the way.

Buenos Aires – Day Two

Our main destination today is the Teatro Colon located at Plaza Lavelle. The plaza is dedicated to Juan Lavelle. Lavalle was a general in the military and like many military men he was both honored and reviled during his life. He died in 1841, defeated in war and his few followers tried to take his body to Bolivia. However, due to decomposition, they were forced to boil his body and take only his bones. These are now buried in La Recoleta Cemetery and his statue in the center of the plaza is surrounded by statues and fountains, shaded with mature trees. One of these statues is of two ballet dancers, Norma Fontenla and Jose Neglia, who danced frequently at the Teatro and were killed in an airplane accident in 1971. However the crowning jewel of the plaza is the Teatro. Although the theatre season is closed, the theatre offers guided tours and our German friends had said it was well worth the money and time. It is considered to be, acoustically, one of the 5 best opera houses in the world along with La Scala, Milan, Italy, and The Royal Opera House in London, England, The Metropolitan Opera House, New York, USA and The Bolshoi in Moscow, Russia. This current theatre replaced the original one which first opened in 1857 and operated for about 35 years. Three architects are credited with the design. Francesco Tamborini began the construction in 1889 but died in 1891. Design was then assumed by his colleague and student, Vittorio Meano who was murdered in 1904. The building was finally completed in 1908 by Belgian architect Julio Dormal. After 20 years of construction, the grand opening was May 25th, 1908 the “Dia de La Patria” (National Day) in Argentina with the first opera being Verdi’s “Aida”. During its first season more than 17 operas were performed with many of the famous stars appearing including tenor Bassi, baritone Ruffi and soprano Crestini and in later years Callas, Caruso and Pavarotti. The building is built in the Italian operatic tradition, with six vast tiers above which is the loggione or gallery where the less wealthy stand, a horseshoe shaped auditorium, to which the incredible acoustics are attributed and enormous stage with orchestra seating. Gorgeous building materials including three types of Italian marble, French stained glass windows and Venetian mosaics were all imported from Europe to create large-scale lavishness. The seven tier main theatre is breath-taking in size where a huge central chandelier with over 700 lights illuminates the red velvet seats and balcony rails. With its sheer size, opulence and acoustics it is easy to see why this is one of the world’s top opera houses. Luciano Pavarotti was once quoted as saying that the theatre’s only “flaw” was “that the acoustics were so good, that every mistake in pitch could be heard”. Although renovated several times, the theatre was closed for four years from 2006 until 2010 for a massive $100 million dollar remodel. However the original design and acoustics were kept along with the rich scarlet and gold furnishings and the cupola frescoes by artist Raul Soldi. I left with echoes of Pavarotti singing Nessum Dorma ringing in my head. Our only regret is that the theatre season runs from late March through December so there are currently no performances we can attend. We would have loved to experience the theatre from the audience point of view. Oh well. Our final stop was to photograph the Obelisk at the Plaza de la Republica. Located on Avenida 9 de Julio, which although credited with being the widest boulevard in the world still manages to be almost continually congested with traffic, the Obelisk was built to commemorate the 4th centenary (400 years) of the city. Designed by architect Alberto Prebisch in 1936, the monument is over 67 meters (220 ft) high. It has been used as a symbol for expression as in December 2005, when it was covered by a giant pink “condom” to recognize Worlds Aid Day, in September 2006 to commemorate the 30th anniversary of La Noche de los Lapices (Night of the Pencil) when students were kidnapped and murdered by the military junta it was converted into a giant pencil, in September 2007, it was covered with the colors of Argentina and Germany to celebrate 15 years of bilateral relations and in May 2010, it was bathed in lights for the Bi-Centennial Celebration of Argentina. The area is similar to Times Square in New York or Piccadilly Circus in London with huge flashing neon LED signs. Quite gaudy but a great photo op. After dodging the traffic and people on 9 de Julio we were both glad to stop at one of the many sidewalk cafes for a beer. The city may revolve around the Obelisk but our thought and conversation still was on the Teatro. What a glorious place and yes, it was worth every cent of the $25.00 (US) entrance fee.

Buenos Aires. – Day One

The “Paris of South America” is located on the shore of the Rio de la Plata (River Plate). Although founded more than 400 years ago, it really came known as an international city at the turn of the 20 century. Thanks to the beef boom of the late 1800’s, railroads were built and Argentina surpassed both Canada and Australia in beef and agricultural exports. Built up mostly by immigrants from Italy and Spain, the city is proud of its European heritage. As the economy improved, the older Hispanic colonial buildings were replaced in the image of Paris and all things French. The streets were widened into huge boulevards lined with trees, marble sidewalks and outdoor cafes. There was tremendous wealth and the city became the cultural center of South America. When the boom was over and the economy declined, so did the city. Now many of the buildings have been or are undergoing renovation to restore them to their former grandeur. Where we are staying in the area of Puerto Madero, small outdoor cafes line the promenade overlooking the river, very reminiscent of the west bank of Paris. Our first night, we walked through beautifully maintained and well lit parks and streets, admiring the 19th- century brick warehouses of the old port which now house offices and lots of up-scale restaurants. We ate at one of these, “The Sushi Club”, forgoing well known Argentinean beef for sushi for which we were both hankering. It was excellent and well priced compared to many sushi restaurants. The next morning I stayed with Winston and Tom went by taxi to drop off our laundry, which had accumulated over the past few weeks and he wanted to go to the Swiss Army Knife store to replace some components he had lost and buy new cases for the two knives. Winston and I walked through more of the parks and promenade areas, taking in the beautiful morning. Our first sightseeing trip in the afternoon was to the Recoleta district to visit the Basilica of Our Lady of Pilar (Basilica Nuestra Senora Del Pilar) and the Cemetery (Cementerio). The basilica was originally designed by a Jesuit priest, Andrea Bianchi and was completed in 1732. Although it was remodeled at the turn of the 20th century, in 1930 architect Andres Mille restored it to its original appearance. It was designated a basilica by Pope Pious XI and became a historical monument in 1942. The front is built architecturally along neo-classical lines with the tower on the left and the belfry on the right. In the case of this church, there is a double belfry which makes it unique. Inside, the main altar and most of the statues originate from the time of its construction. The main (silver) altar is Altoperuvian, with six medals of the sun and moon, which by Peruvian connotations allude to the Virgin: “brilliant as the sun, higher than the moon”. The main altar is flanked by 6 smaller chapels (altars) which vary in design from Peruvian to Rococo to Neo-Baroque. It was quite breath-taking and I remembered something written a long time ago “Visiting a church is not merely a cultural moment or leisure time. It is an opportunity to share in the religious beliefs of different peoples and the historic times of the country”. To visit this church is not only a journey through history back to the colonization of Argentina but it shows the evangelistic movement of not only the Spanish but also the Franciscans who designed it. As a side note, before retiring I was a designer and love architecture and its different periods. I also love religious places be it a church, cathedral, basilica, temple (Buddhist or Jewish) or mosque. It doesn’t matter to me, I am drawn to them. I have been in many all over the world (although I never went to Mecca) and no matter the religion, when I enter a religious building it is always with a feeling of not only deep respect but peace. I find them tranquil, serene places and if only for a few moments can leave all my problems at the door. From here it was onto the Cementerio de Recoleta. In 1822, this became the first public cemetery in the city and has over 4,800 vaults. Its front portico is in the Greek Doric style with four columns marking the entrance. Many of the most famous people of Argentine history are interred here – Belgrano, Rodriquez and Rivadavia in addition to a myriad of writers, poets and just the plain old wealthy. All have ornate marble and granite crypts with giant carved statues, angels and the like adorning them. The most internationally well known of those resting here is Eva Duarte Peron (Evita). I had promised myself a visit to her crypt mainly because being female, I am proud of women who came before me and made life easier for the rest of us. Eva Duarte Peron falls definitely into that category. She was an actress when she met Juan Peron, who at the time was Secretary of Labor. Back then, the so called working class and aristocracy were quite separate and Eva caused more than a few headaches with her passionate speeches on behalf of the working class. When Juan Peron became President in 1946, Eva never forgot her lowly background and became a champion for social change. It is thanks to her that women in Argentina got to vote and a public health service was developed. Yes, she toured Europe as though she were royalty and Yes, she (because of the social programs) caused more government spending which led to inflation and to corruption of some officials but she helped initiate social reform, programs and equality that in my opinion surpasses that. In other words, she did more good than harm. She died too young at the age of 33 from cancer. She has been immortalized but hopefully not trivialized in books, movies and song. Known affectionately by the people as Evita, Eva Duarte Peron is truly an icon of her time and Argentina only cries because she died not that she lived. Her crypt is strewn with flowers to honor a remarkable woman and remembrances of a time we can only imagine.

Laguna dos Lobos

The lake was a perfect spot to wait out Christmas and New Year. It stayed quiet most of the time. Christmas Eve was noisy with plenty of fireworks being set at midnight to welcome in Christmas Day. However, after 12:30AM it was quiet again. Christmas Day, we went back to Lujan to the Basilica for mass. We are used now to Spanish mass and are always interested in the slightly different customs in the countries. Brazil has, by far, the most exuberant of services both in music and the participation of the congregation. This was a more subdued service but the sheer beauty and magnificence of the church more than compensated for that. After getting back to the campsite, the rest of the day was quiet. The biggest highlight was being able to Skype with our kids and family. Christmas for me is probably the most difficult time to be away from home, my son told me the same thing. It is just one day however and we will see them in June or July when we are in Ecuador, as we plan to rent a house there and have friends and family visit. We also learned that Tom’s niece who swims with the US swim team will be participating in a swim meet in Patagonia at Viedra on the Rio Negro. The event is scheduled for February 4th and so now we want to re-arrange our schedule, yet again, so we will be able to meet with her and cheer her on in her open water event. We have never seen her swim so that will be fun for us and her. New Years Eve was similar to Christmas and when the campsite was the busiest. At midnight, we were treated to a beautiful fireworks display set off from the other side of the lake. This meant they went over the lake and so we were able to see the gorgeous colors set against the night sky. We only had one bottle of champagne and decided to save it for New Years Day, so we settled with toasting in 2012 with a glass of Argentinean wine. There were also fire crackers in the campsite, much to Winston’s dismay. After watching the big show, we went inside the RV and Tom kept him snuggled up on the bed with him. Fortunately, everyone went to bed at around 2AM, not bad for New Years Eve standards. The campsite has very strict rules about music, which is very unusual in South America. As a result the true party people camp on the other side of the lake, which was fine by us. I have come to the conclusion there are two types of people. Those who revel in New Years Eve and love the hype, the excitement and the partying that accompanies the New Year and those who don’t. I fall into the second category. Most years, I have spent the evening quietly with friends either at someone’s home for a small celebration or at a hotel and again with only a group of friends. I have never liked being out with hoards of strangers who are usually in some stage of inebriation. So, this New Year was perfect. New Years Day had the most visitors to the lake. It was one of those beautiful summer days, not too hot with a breeze. As a result we were able to watch wind and kite surfers out on the lake. Since most people only had Monday as a holiday by Monday night, the campsite was back to just a handful of people. Because of the relative calm and tranquility, there are lots of birds nesting around us. Daily we were treated to a family of burrowing owls. These little guys had burrowed and nested by the lake and had had a chick. It was mature enough that they were letting it out of the nest and it was fun to see it walk around while the parents tried hard not to look proud! Okay, that was my interpretation. Likewise for the family of hawks who had their nest in the tree hanging over our motor home. When we first arrived, we knew there was a chick in the nest and we would watch the parents fly around, taking turns in guarding the nest and getting food. But after a week or so he was also getting out and about, whilst all the time they kept a wary eye on Winston. Fortunately, the only times Winston would get curious was when they were getting him settled back in the nest and making lots of noise and rustling. This would immediately get the dog’s curiosity and set him barking. There were lots of hawks around but we soon found out that hawks are very shy, skittish birds. Whilst we got some great photos of the burrowing owls, the hawks would fly off as soon as Tom got a little too close with his camera. One day we were fortunate enough to see a flock of flamingoes come in. They arrived late in the afternoon and looked beautiful with the sun reflecting off their pink feathers. They stayed through the night and following morning but left by midday. In addition to bird watching we took long walks by the lake, read and caught up on household chores. We are a little undecided on how to spend our time until the 14th when the fridge arrives so we decide to spend a couple of days in Buenos Aires, referred to as Capital Federal by most Argentineans. We can find the port where the shipment comes in and get in some sight-seeing. Since the Monday following New Year is also a holiday, we decide to wait until Wednesday to travel. We have been told there is parking in the Puerto Madera area so that is our destination. I am excited. Buenos Aires, for years has been dubbed the Paris of South America. It is supposedly a beautiful city and we are looking forward to a few days of simply being tourists, not travelers.

It is a small world after all

During the night the storm had passed though it was still cloudy and humid. Anne and Jon were up and about and we walked over to their site to have coffee and pastries. By the time I got there, Tom and Jon were chatting. “Guess what” Tom said to me excitedly. “They know Jeanne and Bruce”. They had lived in Sacramento for a while and Tom had said his three sisters and their families live in Granite Bay. “We know someone in Granite Bay” Jon added. It so happens, Tom’s sister and brother in law are avid birders as are Anne and Jon. So they would get together and Jon and Bruce had been bird spotting several times. We marveled that of all the places we go and people we meet, we could meet them doing the same thing as us at the same time. Over the next couple of days, we exchanged stories and information. They were able to give us plenty of information about Patagonia, Chile, Peru and Ecuador. In return we give all our information regarding Uruguay, Paraguay, Brazil and Venezuela. It was also fun to talk about events in the States and Europe. Like Tom and I, Jon and Anne are an Anglo/American couple and so are facing the same issues regarding visas, while both are travelling on passports from different countries. Jon definitely keeps up with current events in England more than I do but we do share similar feelings about the European Community (EEC) and its economic problems. We all agreed that travelling at least was sparing us from the GOP debates back in the States and for that we were grateful. That night Tom made fondue (reminiscent of our time in Villa General Belgrano) which went very well with some Argentinean wine. From here, they are going to do some bird-watching on the Rio Plata and we are headed about 60 miles south to Laguna dos Lobos for Christmas and New Year but with the intent on returning to Lujan for Christmas Day mass.

An amazing sight

We left Rosario early so we could get to our rendezvous with Anne and Jon at a suburb outside of Buenos Aires called Lujan. We had arranged to pick up a new deep cell battery in the city and hoped to do that first. As “luck” would have it by the time we reached Buenos Aires it was rush hour or maybe the traffic is always heavy. The streets were crammed. It took us 2 hours to locate the store but they had the correct battery and it did not take them long to install it. Then it was back on the autopista to Lujan. Anne had given me directions to the campsite which seemed easy to get to from the freeway. As we approached the roundabout, we were astounded at the sight in front of us. A basilica. Completed in 1937 this enormous neo-gothic church was built to honor the Virgin of Lujan (the patron saint of Argentina). Designed by French architect Ulderico Courtois who used Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris as his model, it was built to the same lines and details of 13th century churches. Using stone from the Entre Rios region of Argentina, it is truly imposing. The front is flanked by two towers standing over 100 meters (330 ft) high, those combined with the copper roof transept and gigantic bronze doors maintain the gothic tradition. The interior also keeps to the French Gothic style with the main altar dominating the view from the front door, wide aisles and alcoves with beautiful stained glass windows. At the altar is the tiny 1 foot (38cm) statue of the Virgin of Lujan to whom this enormous church is dedicated and over six million people visit every year to pray. What a testament to faith. We pulled over to the side and could only ogle at the sheer beauty and magnificence of it. We decide that we will try to come to mass here before we leave. It is dark when we pulled in to the campsite and by the time we got the RV situated the rain which had been light, started to come down in torrents. Jon and Anne’s vehicle was silent, they were sleeping already. We made soup and a sandwich and as the rain picked up speed, the thunder and lightning followed. We ate listening to the sound and the conversation was centered on the basilica and the profound visual effect it created for us.

Rosario.

Although only 260 miles, we were late leaving VGB so it took us two days to get to Rosario. We spent the first night at a gas station in Villa Maria. It was quiet with a large grassy area to exercise Winston and it had Wi-Fi. Then it was on to Rosario. Also located on the Parana River in the province of Santa Fe, Rosario is a beautiful city and the third largest in Argentina with a population of over 1 million people. Our destination in the city is the Monumento Nacional a la Bandera (National Flag Monument). This 10,000 sq. meter complex built using stone from the Andes consists of the tower, civic courtyard and the Propileo Triunfal. The 70 meter (210ft) tower which has the crypt of Manuel Belgrano at the base provides fantastic views of the rest of the complex, the nearby Cathedral and the city and river. From there, the walk across the courtyard is filled with stone statues by sculptors Jose Fioravanti and Alfredo Bigatti until you enter the Propleo Triunfal. The huge stone pillars reminiscent of ancient Roman and Greek architecture has the Honor Room which displays all the flags of the Americas and holds the Eternal Flame at the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Guarded by the military it is a tribute to the wars fought and soldiers who died for their country. Very Arlington Cemetery like. Across the street, National Flag Park has plenty of riverside parking and was perfect for our overnight stay. After dark, the monument and nearby Cathedral is lit with a fabulous display of lights and because of Christmas, plenty of decorations and Christmas trees. A little after dark a monstrous storm came through so in addition to all the other lights we were treated to a super display of lightening as it flashed across the sky and lit up the river. The only downside was there was no internet and we were unable to meet up with Luis and Sylvina. However time allowing we will come back to visit them but we are committed to being in Buenos Aires tomorrow to meet with Anne and Jon.