About Beef, Wine and Parrillas (Steakhouses).

Argentina is world renowned for its high quality of beef and although much is exported, the best is kept at home. This is a carnivore’s paradise. Around 50 varietals of grape are grown in Mendoza and the drier areas of the north but the Malbec and Cabernets with a few blends are the best. The wines are extremely inexpensive and very good. This is a wine-drinkers paradise. Arguably, put together, a good cut of beef and a bottle of red wine is a gastronomic, culinary delight and the Argentineans have taken it to another level of ritual and tradition. Steak preparation is taken very seriously and it seems as though there is a parrilla on every street corner. So, how to find the best steakhouses in Buenos Aires, not just a restaurant that serves steaks but a true, honest to God temple to beef? We checked the internet, asked cab drivers and talked to locals. The same names pop up: La Cabrera, La Brigada, Cabana Las Lilas and for the locals, Siga la Vaca, La Caballeriza and La Dorita. By American standards Argentineans eat late, 10 or 11pm is not unusual, so many restaurants do not open until 9 or so.
For our first venture into serious steak consumption, we took a taxi to San Telmo and La Brigada. After dropping us off at the appropriate intersection, we then asked a policeman who pointed to a building just a few steps down a cobbled street. On the way we passed an upscale looking wine retailer and decided to check it out before dinner. VinoTango is owned and ran by Delia who speaks very good English and is extremely helpful. The wines are priced from about $5.00 a bottle on up. Like I said there are some very good, inexpensive wines in Argentina. We purchased 2 bottles in the $15.00 range and a bottle of port made from Malbec grapes. From there it was onto La Brigada. The first thing I noticed was that we were the only non Spanish speaking customers and the waiters didn’t speak English either. There appeared to be the easy camaraderie of regulars who probably eat here often. There was the tantalizing aroma and the sound of sizzling beef as it hit the grill. The tables had white tablecloths with runners of black leather, the menus were bound in cow hide and the walls had posters illustrating the various cuts. We were seated by our waiter, Sebastian, who commented that he spoke only a little English. That’s ok, there is only beef on the menu and we know enough Spanish to request our steaks “jugoso”, rare. The wine list was daunting. Sebastian made a few suggestions and left us to decide. There is a couple at the table next to us. They have a bottle of wine on the table. I tried to see what is was but the label was the wrong way. They caught me looking and offered the bottle for me to see. Then they offered me their glass to taste from. This would never happen in the States without requesting a clean glass but “when in Rome” so of course I accepted. It was a Malbec Reserve listed at $35.00 and it was very good. We ordered it and introduced ourselves to our neighbors. They spoke some English and were regulars at La Brigada. Tom ordered the T-Bone and me, a rib-eye. Steaks are usually served by themselves without any sauces or garnishments other than a salad although if you request it, chimichurra sauce is provided. We ordered the Waldorf salad to go with ours. The steaks arrived, covering the whole plate. One entrée would easily serve two people and we did take a considerable amount of meat home with us, including the bone for Winston. The steaks were cooked to perfection and excellent. The entire meal, salad, steaks, dessert (flan), wine and coffee came to about $120.00. Not cheap but certainly not expensive by US steakhouse prices.
Following our mammoth Sunday of sightseeing with Pablo and Cesar, we next tried Siga La Vaca (Follow the Cow) in Pilar. This is a “tenedor libre” or all-you-can-eat parrilla with restaurants in Capital Federal at Puerto Madero and 4 others in the surrounding suburbs including the one we went to. None of us had eaten since breakfast, so we decided to show up unfashionably early which means before 10pm. The L-shaped building is reminiscent of a ranch home and inside is decorated with ceiling lights and wall sconces covered in cowhide and wait staff wearing aprons with a cow hide pattern. The method is simple. You can get up whenever you want and get as much food as your body can physically handle. This includes the salad bar and parrilla, complete with various cuts of meat from cows, chickens, pigs, and miscellaneous animal parts. At the end, if you are still breathing and able, you get one dessert from a fairly extensive dessert menu. In addition to the food each person gets unlimited bottled water (with or without gas) and either an entire bottle of wine or pitcher of beer or soda, all for the low price of 97 pesos (about $22, 00) per person. There were two long buffet tables, loaded with a variety of salad items, cold cuts and cheeses. Then there was the huge parrilla with a chef tending to it and serving customers. This might seem confusing and daunting to some tourists, but if you know a couple of beef phrases, tira (short ribs), bife de chorizo (sirloin) or filet or, simply point at what you want, you’ll do okay. The chef then slices off pieces for you. The waitress supplied us with bottles of water both clear and sparkling, a bottle of wine, two pitchers of beer and one pitcher of soda and bowls full of French fries to accompany our meat. We later ordered desserts of flan with crème de dulce and crema, chocolate lava cake with vanilla ice cream topped with raspberry sauce, lemon sorbet and a bowl of mixed fruit. The four of us ate and drank for under $100.00 including a tip. When we got home all we could do was collapse on the bed because we had not only “followed the cow” but caught and ate it!
By contrast our next venture into the world of parrillas was Cabanas Las Lilas in Puerto Madero. It is widely written about on the internet and screams “tourist”. We had been warned that it was the most expensive parrilla in town but was it worth it? The huge 400 seat restaurant is located in a converted warehouse along the canal with tables both inside and out. The menu which consists of what else, but beef that is raised on their own private estancia (ranch). It is also one of the few restaurants that stay open all day and so accommodates the early (by Argentinean standards) dinner habits of North American tourists. We arrived on a Tuesday night at around 9pm with no reservations and had to wait about 30 minutes for a table, which we spent having a gin & tonic at the bar and chatting with Guthrie, a gentleman from England who is headed to Tierra del Fuego for a fishing trip. There are no cow hides in sight. The waiters are dressed in black pants and white shirts, suits for the head waiters and the guests are mostly foreign. When we were seated, it was outside at one corner, sheltered by short shrubs and with pretty views of the canal. The night was clear and warm so it was perfect. The staff works a given area on a team basis with one head waiter who takes the order and then others that serve, refill and replenish your bread and drinks. Tom ordered the T-Bone and me, the asado de tira which is a traditional Argentine cut. Since everything is a al carte we also ordered a baked potato and mushrooms to share. After studying the wine book, which is split into sections of exceptional (more than $100), very good ($50.00 range) and good ($25 range) we eventually asked the waiter to select for us a bottle of very good or mid range wine. He pointed to a Cabernet Reserve that once opened was delicious. Those were the highlights. To put it mildly, our steaks were disappointing. Tom’s T-bone was not of the same juicy quality as at La Brigada, or size for that matter and my tira was dry and tough. I eventually gave up on my steak, ate the potato and mushrooms and had the rest packaged to take home for Winston. We had no dessert or coffee and our bill including 4 gin & tonics, dinner and wine was close to $200.00. So, for ambience and service we give it a 5 and for food a 2. Hmm. Maybe we were there on an “off night”, maybe we chose the wrong cut of steak but we would not return which is a shame because we really did love the location, service and atmosphere.
By contrast, we loved La Cabrera. A lot is written about the restaurant and some is true but it is a great parrilla. Yes, the wait is long if you don’t have reservations, we did not. But the hostess was cheerful and pointed us to a seat next door where we could sit and have a drink whilst we waited. We chatted with a student from Seattle who was studying in Buenos Aires and her Paraguayan friend who both said this was the best restaurant for the money. There are plenty of tourists but also some locals. Our outside table was fine for us. We were seated next to two Australians and there is definitely no room for private conversation but we were not here for romance. We were here for beef. Our waiter Gustavo was polite, friendly and well informed. He encouraged us not to order too much and suggested a wine from the list. It was a $32.00 bottle of Malbec that went well with our Ojo de Bife. He also let us know that if we really want rare we should ask for it “bien juguso” (well juicy). This is the only parrilla that offered at no extra charge, side dishes and lots of them consisting of small portions of potatoes, squash, salad and about 10 other bowls of various vegetables. The beef was sensational and cooked to perfection with plenty left over for take home. At the end of the meal a lollipop tree was put on the table. Try as many as you like. Our bill including tip was under $100.00 making it the best value from the list of top parrillas in Buenos Aires. To avoid the long wait, make reservations. This restaurant stays packed from 8 until after midnight but at no point did we feel rushed. It is worth the visit but don’t forget those reservations.
At the complete other end of the economic scale are the Carritos (food stand parrillas). If you come to Buenos Aires and don’t eat at one you are missing out. Not only are they cheap but incredibly delicious. There are many along the Costnera Sur in Puerto Madero. Just order a traditional choripan (sausage sandwich) or bife de chorizo (sirloin steak) and eat out at plastic tables with chairs overlooking the river.
To conclude. We think Argentine beef is the best in the world, with Uruguay second and Australia third. Like seeing a tango show, every visit to Buenos Aires should include eating at least once at a parrilla. If we had to choose one it would be La Cabrera and next time we will make reservations to avoid the wait. A close second is La Brigada as we liked the non-tourist feel about the place as well as the food. If you don’t mind buffets or are on a budget and are not timid about asking for help in selecting your meat, try Siga la Vaca. Unless it is a special occasion (anniversary) and you’re looking for ambience, give Cabana Las Lilas a miss. It was expensive and not worth our time or money. But there are hundreds of others in town so ask around and venture into your own realm of serious steak consumption.

Congress Palace and Casa Rosada – Sunday in Buenos Aires.

The Palacio de Congresso (Congress Palace) is an imposing Greek-Roman style building. It is also a good example of the concept for Buenos Aires for taking architectural ideas from the world’s most famous buildings and incorporating them into the city. Designed by Italian architect, Vitorrio Meano (who also designed Teatro Colon) and constructed from granite covered in gleaming white marble, the palace resembles the U.S. Capitol Building. The views from our vantage point in the Plaza de Congresso (Congress Plaza) with the Greek Doric style columns in front and the copper covered dome gleaming in the afternoon sun made for some great photographs. The plaza which features the Monumento a los Dos Congressos (Monument of the Two Congresses) is also the place where many protests have taken place. There seemed to be a semi permanent collection of booths and a group of people regaling the state of the Malvinas (Falkland Islands) and the war. I was unsure what they actually wanted but it was interesting to watch their relatively quiet protest as police and guards patrolled. A 10 block walk down Avenida de Mayo, at the other end and facing the Congress Palace is Casa Rosada (the Pink House). As we strolled along the boulevard we passed some amazing granite and limestone buildings with adorned balconies constructed either from carved stone balustrades or ornate wrought iron and tiled or copper cupolas, towers and domes. As we approached Plaza de Mayo and La Casa Rosada, the sun was starting to set, bathing it in extraordinary shades of coral and pink. Possibly the most photographed building in the city, Casa Rosada or its official name Casa de Gobierno (Government House) has been the seat of the executive branch of the government of Argentina since the late 19th century. The picturesque Italian Renaissance style “house” is stunning and as I stood on front of it, I could easily picture Eva Peron standing at the balcony facing the plaza rallying the “descamisados, the low income workers or Pope John Paul II when he visited in 1998, waving to the crowds. Today though, no-one is on the balcony and the crowds made up of tourists and Argentineans alike are soaking up the early evening sun and the sights and sounds of a bustling city. The biggest surprise for us came at 6:50pm when a group of ceremonial palace guards in full uniform marched out of the house and around the plaza. As the clock tower rang at 7pm, one played the bugle as the others gathered around the flagpole for the lowering of the Argentinean flag. The bugle with its hauntingly simple tone and melody filled the square and it was beautiful to watch as the Argentineans respectfully stood with hands over their hearts paying homage as the flag was lowered and taken away. Instead of walking the 10 blocks back to the car, Pablo and Cesar suggested taking the subway and Tom and I jumped at the opportunity. As we descended into the well-lit, tiled tunnel that make up the underground train system it reminds me of subways I have been in all over the world. The sights, smells and sounds are all so similar. There was a vintage train on the platform and as we waited for our train, we took photos of it and the guard. The subway ride back to the car was quick and uneventful but we were grateful for the chance to experience another aspect of the city. Everyone was tired. It has been a long day and the dogs have been alone at home. We decide that instead of eating dinner in the city, we will go back to Pilar, check on the dags and then go to Siga La Vaca (Follow the Cow) parrilla for dinner. What a day! EL Ateneo, Plaza San Martin, San Telmo, La Boca, Congress Palace and Casa Rosada, phew!

San Telmo & La Boca – Two Barrios in Buenos Aires

Of the 48 barrios (neighborhoods) in Buenos Aires, San Telmo is the oldest and La Boca along with Barracus and Puerto Madero are next. Most of the residents are of mixed European descent, mainly Italian, Spanish, French and Basque. Known for its 19th century architecture and cobblestone streets, San Telmo is teeming with cafes, tango parlors, art and antique shops. If you are ever in Buenos Aires, put this on your schedule: “San Telmo on Sunday”. Centered in Plaza Dorrego, the arts and crafts fair stretches down numerous side streets. The little barrio is teeming with artisans, musicians, tango dancers and performers and the atmosphere is filled with energy. Arts and crafts, antiques and all things tango are for sale in the pedestrian only streets. Some expensive, some not and you can always bargain. I purchased a small leather-bound notebook with a tango scene on the cover for only $5.00! The artist even put my name on the back. Taking time we would stop often and listen to the performers, who range from one person singing the melancholy sounds of tango to full scale tango orchestras. I was entranced by a tango show being performed by two dancers in a small amphitheatre style setting. I could have watched longer but the guys wanted to keep moving. The day was heating up when we stopped at one of the many restaurants that line the streets, many of which host performances of tango and folklore song and dance. Here you can see dancers performing the tango, milonga (a more energetic version of tango) and folk dancing without spending the money to visit a show. As we sat drinking our chopp (draft beer) we watched tango and folk dancers, while at the restaurant across from us there was another more elderly performer singing tango. In fact at one point the owner came across and tried to tell the owner of the restaurant where we were that his music was too loud. I also had to ask the owner to sit down because he was standing in front, blocking the view and as a result most of the photos we took, he was in them! If in the mood, you can try your hand (and feet) and learn to tango from many of the dancers. With so much to see and do, it is easy to forget to look up at the old, restored buildings with their flower filled ornate balconies and cupola topped roofs. I could have stayed here all day but we want to see La Boca too. La Boca is the most colorful area of Buenos Aires and the buildings and homes in the barrio are painted vibrant shades of blue, red, yellow and green. Italian immigrants were the first settlers in this neighborhood and it was the city’s first port. Although many of the world’s football (soccer) fans know La Boca as being the home of La Bombonera and the Boca Juniors, we are going to the main pedestrian street, La Caminito, named after a famous tango song. Like San Telmo, the streets were lined with artists selling their designs and local dancers performing and teaching tango. Unlike San Telmo , due to the brilliant splashes of color you definitely won’t forget to look up and check out the buildings with their adornments of statues and mannequins. From this quaint, quirky, colorful neighborhood, with echoes of tango in my head, we headed back to the city center for more sightseeing.

Tourists in Buenos Aires.

Pablo and Cesar have given some thought to our day which started at El Ateneo, one of the most well known bookstores in the city. Move over Barnes and Noble, this takes bookstores to another level of style and elegance and in 2008 came in second on the list of the World’s Best Bookstores. Designed by architects Pero and Torres Armengol, it first opened as a theatre named Teatro Gran Splendid in 1919. Many of the most famous tango stars like Carlos Gardel, Francesco Canaro and Ignacio Corsino performed here. Bought in 2000 by the group Tematika, who own more than 40 other stores, it was renovated and the EL Ateneo Grand Splendid became their flagship store. When you walk through you can still feel the grandeur of the original theatre. Although all the seats have been removed in lieu of bookshelves, the ornate carvings, theatre lighting and the stage with its crimson curtains are the same. The orchestra pit now houses a café where you can buy a myriad of alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages as you wander the three tiers (floors) of books. The dome ceiling which has the original beautiful fresco painted by Italian artist Nazareni Orlando and the architectural detail are all original. Elevators take you to the second and third tiers, where shelves are filled with books but the still intact red velvet covered theatre boxes are available to read, have a drink and people watch. Comfortable sofas and chairs are also scattered throughout the store. We could have spent hours here but we need to move on. Next stop was San Martin Plaza, which is Cesar’s most favorite of the city’s parks. Named after General Jose de San Martin, the plaza is a sprawling, tree-filled park. Although the good general died in exile, in 1862 French sculptor Louis-Joseph Daumas was commissioned to create the equestrian statue of San Martin as a hero from the Wars of Independence and in 1878 the plaza was named in his honor. Now numerous mature trees shade the park and benches. The beautiful flowering jacaranda, magnolia and the yellow flowered tipa (rosewood) trees in addition to two hundred year old fichus and trees invite visitors passing by to sit and contemplate the statues and nearby monuments and buildings. Located in the park is the Monumento a los Caídos en Malvinas (Monument for the fallen in the Falklands war). Built in 1990 to honor those who fought for Argentina, this was the second memorial that we have visited (the first was in Rosario) that commemorates the 1982 Falklands War with England. Although much has been written about this war, precipitated by Argentina and General Galtieri who mistakenly thought the British would not respond, the war tragically took 907 lives, 258 British and 649 Argentine. Visible from the park and memorial is the renamed Torre Monumental, although most still call it Torre de los Ingleses (British Clock Tower). This Renaissance clock is set on a platform 35 meters (115 feet) high. On top the tower is an octagonal dome that is covered with layered copper. A weather vane that represents an Elizabethan three-mast ship crowns the peak. Surrounding the park are buildings of gorgeous examples of neo-gothic architecture that what were once mansions and now various government offices. After lots of photographs, it was off to our next spot, the older barrios of Buenos Aires.

A week in Pilar

Waiting for the fridge which is due to arrive Saturday the 14th, means that we can catch up on some RV maintenance and other chores. Since Pablo and Cesar live on a street surrounded by fields, there is very little traffic and there is a police sub-station next door to them. There was plenty of room to park the motor home and it was safe. Our weeks tasks were fixing the window frame on the door of the motor home, having the air conditioner in the truck checked, for some mysterious reason (and Tom has looked at it) it no longer blows air through the front vents, only top and bottom, so we are hot but our feet are freezing! And Winston needs his yearly check up and vaccinations. Pablo had looked for a mechanic to service the RV, so that is scheduled for Thursday. We are going to use the same vet as they do for their dogs and Monday afternoon we were at Puppies & Kittens to see Dr. Catalina Langbehn. Dr. Catalina speaks English and we were able to tell her we needed a health certificate for travelling, plus vaccinations and his yearly blood work. But first, to the scale. No!! Both Tom and I know he has gained weight but to our dismay he checks in at 23 kg. (50lbs). For his size he should be around 40lb. After he gets his shots, we buy some light, low calorie food. We returned Thursday as they need a little more blood and he weighed in at 22.8kg. I know he is thinner although no-one else sees it, maybe I’m delusional! Also we kept our appointment for the air conditioner and they discovered that somehow a hose had been damaged and that explained the lack of air. Now when we drive the cab is cool. Due to some errors in the cutting process, Tom spent all week going back and forth to the wood place to get the correct size for the frame. But by Saturday it was installed and painted black to match the other windows. On Friday we received notice from the shipping agent in Buenos Aires, telling us we can deposit their fees ($359.00) at the HSBC bank, so once the fridge has arrived and uncrated we will have the payment on file. The rest of the week, we spent lazing around the pool. Tom cooked several nights in the week and we went out for pizza one evening. We also went to a puppy adoption center on Wednesday night and another of the puppies found a home, now only three to go. Also, Pablo and Cesar have found a home for the mother, so that is great news. On Saturday, a friend came to visit. Sol works with Pablo as a flight attendant and spoke a little English. We also planned a Sunday trip to Capital Federal (Buenos Aires city) so they put together an itinerary of places to try to see. What fun.

Pilar and Tigre

Saturday we left the city of Buenos Aires (Capital Federal) for the suburb of Pilar, about 25 miles from the city center. We had met Pablo and Cesar on Ihla de Santa Catarina in Brazil and have stayed in contact via email since then. Naturally, we got lost a couple of times finding their home and eventually asked someone who told us to follow them. Their house is away from the town center in an area surrounded by fields and with houses nestled behind shrub lined fences. As we went in and gladly accepted the offer of cold beer, the pool glistening in the sun beckoned us. Winston, of course made himself instantly at home, exploring the garden and playing in the thick, luxurious grass. Pablo and Cesar help with the animal adoption society so besides their own two Samoyeds and three mixed breed dogs, they also have a mom with her 4 puppies, five have already found homes. Winston has plenty of new friends. We spent the afternoon around the pool and later Pablo cooked a delicious dinner of chicken milanesa, potatoes and salad. We chatted until late in the night catching up with each others activities. On Sunday, Pablo, Cesar and their friend Estella planned a great trip to Tigre and the Delta. Situated about 20 miles from Capital Federal, the town is on the Rio Parana. The 14,000 square kilometer delta has hundreds of small islands, inlets, streams and backwaters forming a sub-tropical paradise. Founded in 1820, Tigre actually sits on an island created by several rivers, the Rios Parana, Lujan and Sarmiento. Its name is derived from the jaguars that for many years were hunted but are now virtually extinct. Now, besides the Naval Museum, the area is home to numerous riverside pubs and restaurants, antique and souvenir shops, a casino and Parque de la Costa, a huge amusement park. However, many people including us visit the region for its natural beauty and environment. All trips to the delta start in Tigre. For the people who live in the delta and some tourists, the most popular mode of transportation are the vintage, mahogany commuter launches called “Interislena”, which travel through the web of inter-connecting rivers and streams. If you want to simply tour the delta there are many private companies offering tours in catamaran or small motorboats. However, to really get the feel and experience of the delta lifestyle take the commuter boats. Floating along, it is like visiting time past mixing with present. There are traditional English style rowing clubs, elegant mansions mingle with more humble homes, small posadas compete with upscale hotel/spas and whilst you can eat at the numerous restaurants there are also simple picnic sites and small beaches for swimming or sunbathing. One of the more interesting of the homes is actually a museum. Declared a National Monument in 1966, Sarmiento House was home to the 7th president of Argentina, Domingo Faustino Sarmiento. President from 1868 to 1874, Sarmiento was an intelligent, enlightened man who modernizing the railways and establishing a postal system. His greatest achievement however was establishing a comprehensive education program that included the education of women and children. He is thought of by many, as being Argentines’ first “teacher”. Our stop was on the Sarmiento River at a small parilla for lunch. After disembarking at what was basically a small pier on stilts with steps, we encountered the footpath that led to the restaurant. But first, we followed the trail inland, crossed a wooden bridge and entered the backwaters where we could see, hear and smell the delta. Private homes were built along the trails and footpaths, some colorful, some ornate, some on stilts, most with jetties but all very unique. We recognized hydrangeas and orchid plants and hibiscus trees laden with scarlet blossoms and observed the many species of birds that made the area their home. It truly was a feast for the eyes. Back at the restaurant, we sat outside so we could watch the river activities and the many launches stopping at piers to allow people on and off. We saw the grocery shop sail by waiting for the delta residents to call out. And, the food was excellent. To get back to Tigre, we simply waited at our “boat stop” for a launch to come by and waved it over. Maneuvering up to the jetty, a rope was slung over the rungs on the stairs and we jumped in. Then it was the hour or so trip back to the town while watching the river float by, lots of people rowing, on jet skis, or in small pleasure boats, swimming or lazing in deck chairs by the riverbanks. All in the serene laid back lifestyle of life on the water. It seemed a million miles from the crowds and traffic of the capital. Before heading back home to a multitude of waiting, exuberant dogs and puppies, we stopped at Estella’s home for a beer and appetizers. As we sat in her garden surrounded by trees and shrubs, we talked about our day. It seemed perfect in every way and once again Tom and I thanked God for the people we have met in our travels and the friends we make along the way.

Buenos Aires – Day Two

Our main destination today is the Teatro Colon located at Plaza Lavelle. The plaza is dedicated to Juan Lavelle. Lavalle was a general in the military and like many military men he was both honored and reviled during his life. He died in 1841, defeated in war and his few followers tried to take his body to Bolivia. However, due to decomposition, they were forced to boil his body and take only his bones. These are now buried in La Recoleta Cemetery and his statue in the center of the plaza is surrounded by statues and fountains, shaded with mature trees. One of these statues is of two ballet dancers, Norma Fontenla and Jose Neglia, who danced frequently at the Teatro and were killed in an airplane accident in 1971. However the crowning jewel of the plaza is the Teatro. Although the theatre season is closed, the theatre offers guided tours and our German friends had said it was well worth the money and time. It is considered to be, acoustically, one of the 5 best opera houses in the world along with La Scala, Milan, Italy, and The Royal Opera House in London, England, The Metropolitan Opera House, New York, USA and The Bolshoi in Moscow, Russia. This current theatre replaced the original one which first opened in 1857 and operated for about 35 years. Three architects are credited with the design. Francesco Tamborini began the construction in 1889 but died in 1891. Design was then assumed by his colleague and student, Vittorio Meano who was murdered in 1904. The building was finally completed in 1908 by Belgian architect Julio Dormal. After 20 years of construction, the grand opening was May 25th, 1908 the “Dia de La Patria” (National Day) in Argentina with the first opera being Verdi’s “Aida”. During its first season more than 17 operas were performed with many of the famous stars appearing including tenor Bassi, baritone Ruffi and soprano Crestini and in later years Callas, Caruso and Pavarotti. The building is built in the Italian operatic tradition, with six vast tiers above which is the loggione or gallery where the less wealthy stand, a horseshoe shaped auditorium, to which the incredible acoustics are attributed and enormous stage with orchestra seating. Gorgeous building materials including three types of Italian marble, French stained glass windows and Venetian mosaics were all imported from Europe to create large-scale lavishness. The seven tier main theatre is breath-taking in size where a huge central chandelier with over 700 lights illuminates the red velvet seats and balcony rails. With its sheer size, opulence and acoustics it is easy to see why this is one of the world’s top opera houses. Luciano Pavarotti was once quoted as saying that the theatre’s only “flaw” was “that the acoustics were so good, that every mistake in pitch could be heard”. Although renovated several times, the theatre was closed for four years from 2006 until 2010 for a massive $100 million dollar remodel. However the original design and acoustics were kept along with the rich scarlet and gold furnishings and the cupola frescoes by artist Raul Soldi. I left with echoes of Pavarotti singing Nessum Dorma ringing in my head. Our only regret is that the theatre season runs from late March through December so there are currently no performances we can attend. We would have loved to experience the theatre from the audience point of view. Oh well. Our final stop was to photograph the Obelisk at the Plaza de la Republica. Located on Avenida 9 de Julio, which although credited with being the widest boulevard in the world still manages to be almost continually congested with traffic, the Obelisk was built to commemorate the 4th centenary (400 years) of the city. Designed by architect Alberto Prebisch in 1936, the monument is over 67 meters (220 ft) high. It has been used as a symbol for expression as in December 2005, when it was covered by a giant pink “condom” to recognize Worlds Aid Day, in September 2006 to commemorate the 30th anniversary of La Noche de los Lapices (Night of the Pencil) when students were kidnapped and murdered by the military junta it was converted into a giant pencil, in September 2007, it was covered with the colors of Argentina and Germany to celebrate 15 years of bilateral relations and in May 2010, it was bathed in lights for the Bi-Centennial Celebration of Argentina. The area is similar to Times Square in New York or Piccadilly Circus in London with huge flashing neon LED signs. Quite gaudy but a great photo op. After dodging the traffic and people on 9 de Julio we were both glad to stop at one of the many sidewalk cafes for a beer. The city may revolve around the Obelisk but our thought and conversation still was on the Teatro. What a glorious place and yes, it was worth every cent of the $25.00 (US) entrance fee.